I'm curious how to get the features you guys are using on this forum?

like
- Site Links
- Featured Member
- Top Posters (30 Days)
- Today's Birthdays

most are probably custom islands but I haven't figured out how to create them.

Any help appreciated

Just goto the control panel and select the Portal-Portal layout section. Even if you don't use the portal feature. There are several default islands you can select.
Just select the column where you want it to appear. (Left Column,Right Column) When you do, select what row it is to appear on.
Then when you are ready you can expand on the other islands (gallery, post, Etc)
When or if you enable the portal page the same will appear.

Thanks

Maybe I was unclear, I have used some of the basic features that comes with the portal page

However
- Site Links
- Featured Member
- Top Posters (30 Days)
- Today's Birthdays

are extras or not there as option. Top poster (Total posts) are there but how can I create it for 30 days? An so on

It Depends on what version you are using.
For instance site links would be a custom island option that you would need to edit, then you would turn it on in the portal layout. The other three islands are included in a newer version than mine which is 7.2.2.
I have added my post when I had questions on custom islands Here

7.3.1
http://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbthreads.php

It's just that I have not figured out how tho change below

/* PHP CODE HERE */

/* DO NOT CHANGE THE LINE BELOW */
$body = <<<EOF
EOF;
/* DO NOT CHANGE THE LINE ABOVE */


So it comes out as
- Site Links
- Featured Member
- Top Posters (30 Days)
- Today's Birthdays

Your talking about four separate islands not one. For Site Links read the link in my previous post it has exactly what you are asking because I had the same question.
Without reading the change logs I believe the other three Islands are a feature of the new release which is VER 7.4 just released. You would need to upgrade to the new version unless you are very good with sql and php and wish to hack your board.
Your version does have a Top posters island but it is not for the last 30 days but for all time.

BTW the birthdays will appear in your calendar but you just don't have the Todays Birthay Island. So you could just turn on the calander island assuming you have set your options to show birthdays.

It will take a while before I dare to upgrate to 7.4.

in the mean time how do I edit a custom island to "site link"

Just need to see an example how to change below
/* PHP CODE HERE */

/* DO NOT CHANGE THE LINE BELOW */
$body = <<<EOF
EOF;
/* DO NOT CHANGE THE LINE ABOVE */

Thanks for your help

/* PHP CODE HERE */

/* DO NOT CHANGE THE LINE BELOW */
$body = <<<EOF
<A HREF="http://www.ourbeagleworld.com">Beagle World</A><BR>
<A HREF="http://www.trackthunder.com">Track Thunder</A><BR>
EOF;
/* DO NOT CHANGE THE LINE ABOVE */

I'll test that
thanks a lot!!!