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Farfalla
Design
Studio
Vintage 1942
Flat Pattern Design~ Fashion Sewing Book CD
Hundreds of Glamorous Designs ~ Profusely Illustrated with Over 1000 Illustrations~ Professional Techniques~ Trade Secrets~ A Must Have!
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A Rare Classic Book with Invaluable Design Information that is Now Affordable and Accessible for the First Time to EVERYONE in Beautifully Restored CD Format!
MODERN PATTERN DESIGN – CD
The Complete Guide to the Creation of Patterns as a Means of Designing Smart Wearing Apparel
By Harriet Pepin
First Edition 1942
253 Pages
Professionally Restored
This CD Very Rare 1942 Design/Pattern Making Book from My Private Collection that Has Been Scanned and Professionally Restored to it’s Original Glory in PDF Format, Ready to Be Printed Out or Read Directly From Your Computer Screen
SIMPLY THE BEST
If you can add only one classic design/drafting book to your sewing library, I do not think that you could make a better choice than this extraordinary vintage volume! It is one of the most sought-after and difficult to find works from this period, and for good reason! A remarkable resource of patterns, techniques, details, design and inspiration, this book will open a remarkable window to the fashions, styles and sewing procedures of the 1940’s. I recommend it to you without reservation as probably the most comprehensive and rewarding book that you will find on the subject.
LEARN FLAT PATTERN DRAFTING AND DRESS DESIGN
With easy-to-follow instructions and more than 1,000 illuminating drawings and diagrams, MODERN PATTERN DESIGN teaches you how the basic foundation pattern may be used to successfully create all types of garments through the use of the flat or block pattern system.
“This book teaches you the professional secrets of cutting smart, shapely wearing apparel as employed by the nation's leading designers. It teaches you how to reproduce those exclusive, glamorous gowns you’ve always wanted-by learning to cut your own design.”
“It allows you freedom from the limitations of commercial patterns, and teaches you how to add instead your own original ideas. Furthermore, it shows you how to adapt commercial patterns in order to achieve more beauty for your individual figure proportions.”
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Brilliant Design Details
They say good design is all in the details…Here it is! Fantastic 1940’s style garment details that really make the garment extra special.
Leg-O-Mutton Sleeves Draped Peplums…Dolman Sleeves…Godets…Bertha Collar…French Bows…Elizabethan Style Collars…Sailor Collars…Cowl Bodice….Gores…Gussets…Kimono Sleeves…Hoods…Jabots…Peg-Top Silhouette…Raglan Sleeve...Revers…Rippled Collars…Cowl Neck…& So Much More…
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Learn Design Secrets
“This book teaches you the professional secrets of cutting smart, shapely wearing apparel as employed by lending designers. It teaches you how to reproduce those exclusive, glamorous gowns you always wanted.” (Excerpt)
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Chapter 1
Pattern Designing … Description of Pattern Designing Equipment…Model Forms and How to Use Them…Analysis of the Feminine Silhouette… Explanation of Patterns…Procedure Used to Make a Pattern… Seam Allowances…Pattern Symbols… Cutting the Muslin Proof… Tracing the Muslin Proof… Pinning the Muslin Proof…Shoulder, Underarm & Waistline Darts…Dart Tucks and How to Use Them …Dividing the Control Darts… Multiple Darts and How They are Used …Spacing in Design… Yokes Combined with Control Darts …Relationship in Design… Drapery in Design… Concealing the Control in Yoke Seams… Center Front Control—Horizontal and Vertical… Adaptations of Center Front Control…Cowl Necklines…Planning Laps for Closing Garments… Simulated Cowl Designs…Simulated Yokes, Plastrons, etc… How to Prepare the Pattern for Zipper Closings… Surplice Closings…Simple Revers…Formal and Informal Balance in Design… Practice Cutting Problems…Decollete Garments, Bathing Suits, etc …
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Slopers…Slopers of Foundation Patterns…How to Take Measurements for Drafting Slopers…Where Measurements are Taken…Chart of Garment Measurements…How to Draft the Front Bodice Sloper…How to Draft the Back Bodice Sloper…Analysis of Various Types of Figures…Common Faults of Fitting and How to Correct Them…Adding Ease to the Front Bodice…Analysis of the Need for Control in Fitting Back Bodice…Shifting Basic Shoulder Control Darts…Shifting Shoulder Control into Yoke Seams…How to Eliminate the Waistline Control Dart…How to Move Fundamental Seams for the Sake of Design…Variations in Designs for the Back Bodice…Practice Problems Involving Fundamental Seams…
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Hip Length Patterns… Discussion of Ways to Fit Jackets…Partial Waistline Seams…Semi-Fitted Silhouette…Vertical Seams as a Sole Means to Fitting…How to Draft the Front Hip-length Jacket Sloper… How to Draft the Back Hip-Length Jacket Sloper… How to Complete the Front and Back Jacket Slopers… How to Make the Semi-Fitted Jacket Pattern…How to Introduce Multiple Darts at the Waistline in Jackets… Origin of the French Lining Design…How to Make the Pattern for a French Lining… Analysis of the Peplum Style of Jacket…Analysis of the Panel Style of Jacket Providing Partial Waistline Seams …
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Chapter 4
Sleeve Patterns… Analysis for the Need for Shaping the Sleeve… How to Locate Measurement Points…Where Measurements are Taken…How to Draft the Sleeve Sloper… Shaping the Sleeve Cap Properly… Points to Watch When Making Personal Sleeve Slopers… How to Fit the Personal Sleeve Muslin…Points to be Tested for a Well Fitted Sleeve… The Method Used to Make a Folded Sleeve Sloper… Shifting Control to Little Finger Position…Variations of the Finger Control…Analysis of Coat Sleeves and their Functional Characteristics… How to Make the Semi-Fitted One-Piece Coat Sleeve…How to Make the Straight Coat Sleeve Eliminating Elbow Control… How to Draft the Two-Piece Coat Sleeve…Folded Sloper Used to Produce… Variations of Sleeve Designs… Bishop Sleeve…Straight Coat Sleeve …Sleeves with Simulated Cuffs… Sleeves with Fitted Cuffs…Adaptations of a Straight Coat Sleeve Sloper to Create New Designs …Methods for Making Various Types of Short Puffed Sleeves…Leg-of-Mutton Silhouettes and How to Produce Them…Novelty Adaptations of Sleeve Silhouettes Adaptations of Style Sleeves to Produce New Designs… Variations of Sleeves Made from the Two-Piece Sleeve Sloper …
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Harriet Pepin Designer-Teacher-Author
Miss Pepin was educated for a teaching career, but during her school years, she spent much of her spare time in designing and making clothes for her classmates. She gave up the teaching profession however' and went to Washington where she did apprentice work in some of the Capital City smartest custom studios. Later, she continued her fashion studies at the Iraphagen School and at Parsons in New York.
Through the influence and encouragement of American garment manufacturers that she was urged to sponsor a specialized fashion training school in the Mid-West. In 1934, the Pepin Academy of Fashion was founded. It was a success from the first, and today many of its graduates attribute their prominent place in the fashion world to the early training received in the classrooms of the school.
Harriet Pepin's book, MODERN PATTERN DESIGN, is the result of years of exhaustive research. The methods which the book contains are up-to-the-minute, and have been thoroughly tried and proved. The volume is a timely contribution to the field of American design.”
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Chapter 5
Adapting Patterns… Analysis of Garments for Utility Purposes… Active Sports Clothing… Spectator Sports or Business Wear…Social Clothes—Afternoon and Evening… Adjustments of Armscye and Sleeve Cap for Utility Purposes… Preparing Pattern for Padding Shoulders…Enlarging a Sleeve Proportionately to Fit Enlarged Armscye…Enlarging Sleeve in Bicep Measurement… Lengthening Sleeve Cap…Dangers in Careless Adjustments… Analysis of Novelty Shoulder Treatments…How to Draft the Strap Shoulder…How to Draft the Raglan Shoulder…How to Draft Pattern for a Kimono Shoulder… How to Draft the Dolman Shoulder… Analysis of Methods Used to Produce Novelty Designs Based Upon… How to Produce an Exaggerated Shoulder in Raglan Styles…
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Chapter 6
Capes, Ties, Neckwear and Scarves… Origin of Capes in Fashion…Importance in the Fitting of Capes… Analysis of Two Basic Cape Silhouettes… Dolman Cape…Circular Cape… How to Take Measurements for Cape Pattern Drafts…How to Draft the Dolman Cape… How to Draft the Circular Cape…Analysis of Need for Shoulder Control in Dolman Cape… Variations of Dolman and Circular Capes and Methods for Making Them… Analysis of Fabrics Used for Capes in Varying Silhouettes… Analysis of Scarves and Ties…Cravat… Windsor Tie… Four-in-Hand… Stock Collar Type… Importance of Bows in Fashion…Analysis of Types of Bows… Shoe-String Tailored Bow…Boxy Tailored Bow…French Bow… Scarf Bow…How to Produce Detachable and Attached Jabots… How to Cut Detachable and Attached Reversed
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Collars…Importance of the Well Fitting Collar…Vocabulary Pertaining to Collars…Attached Collars…How to Make a Collar… Sloper… How to Draft the Flat Collar… Important Points in Designing the Plastron Collar… How to Cut the Well…Fitting Bertha Collar… How Rippled Collars are Made…Elizabethan Collars…Half Roll Collars…Simple Style…Sailor Type…Shawl Type…Full Roll Collars …Analysis of the Mannish Shirt Collar…Analysis of Convertible Collars…Active Sports Collars… Reefer Collars… Tailored Suit Collars and Their Importance in the Wardrobe… The Four Basic Points for Variety of Style …Method for Drafting Tailored Suit Collars…How to Assemble Convertible and Tailored Suit Collars… Variations in Design of Tailored Suit Collars…Double Breasted Styles…Single Breasted with Low Closing Single Breasted with High Closing… Tuxedo Closing… Single Breasted Shawl Collar… Summary Showing Proportions to Lengthen Folding Line… Raised Necklines and Points on Fitting Them… Analysis of Collarless Necklines…Analysis of Methods Used for Producing Style Cuffs …
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Skirts…The Importance of the Skirt in the Wardrobe…Vocabulary of Skirt Terms…How Skirt Measurements are Taken…How to Make the Simple Skirt Sloper Draft…Comparative Analysis of Skirt Slopers for Varying Figures…How to Draft the Tailored Suit Skirt Pattern and its Uses… Skirt Patterns Cut According to Width of Fabric Being Used…Circular Skirts with Varying Degrees of Fullness…Simulated Circular Skirts… Four, Six, Eight and Ten Gored Skirts with Variations… Skirts Including Flounces…Godets in Skirts…Adding Pleats to Gored Skirts…Pleats Adjoining Panels… Pleats Used in Asymmetric Designs…Pleats at an Angle—Off Grain… Novelty Skirts Including Variations of Principles for Cutting
Skirts with Backward Movement…Cowl Novelty Skirts… Peg-Top Silhouettes… Drapery Added to Panels…Draped Peplums—Jabot—Wrap Around Style…
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Chapter 9
Slacks, Shorts, Culottes, and Bathing Suits… Analysis of Trouser-Like Garments in the Woman's Wardrobe…How to Take Measurements for Slacks…How to Draft the Basic Slack Pattern…How to Draft Utility Hip-Length Sloper Pattern for Making Slacks…How to Make the Straight Culotte Pattern from Basic Skirt Sloper …Show to Make the Semi-Circular CulottePattern from Four-Piece Gored Skirt …Methods Used for Introducing Style Interest in Slacks… Novelty Adaptations of the Basic… Slack Sloper:
"Clam Diggers"
"Western Frontiers"
"Bathing Trunks"
"Regulation Navies"
Novelty Adaptations of the Basic Straight Culotte Pattern…Inverted Center Front Pleats …Straight Pleated Shorts…Novelty Adaptations of the Semi-Circular Culotte Pattern… Lounging Robe… Circular Pleated Shorts…
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Chapter 10
Lingerie…Analysis of Garments Classified in Lingerie Group…Importance of Functional Features in Lingerie Designs…Basic Requirements of Lingerie Designs…How to Cut Panties, Bloomers, from a Basic Slack Draft…How to Cut Simulated Circular Panties from Culotte Draft…Analysis of Methods Used to Produce Slip Patterns…Analysis of
Three Types of Slips:
Princess Fitted Type
Bra-Top Bias Style
Novelty Bias Slip
The Importance of the Brassiere in the Wardrobe…Analysis of Modern Brassieres Designed for Specific Purposes…Methods for Making Brassiere Patterns…Analysis of Functional Features Required in Nightgowns and Pajamas…Functional Classification of Hostess Gowns…Analysis of the House or Breakfast Coat…Adaptation of Designs to Certain Fabrics to Design Hostess Gowns and House Coats
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Coats…Analysis of the Functional Features of Outer Garments…Characteristics of Fabrics Used for Coats and Wraps… The Need for Properly Lining Outer Garments…Analysis of Varying Basic
Silhouettes of Coats
Vertical Seam Fitting
Seamed Waistline with Control Darts
Combination of First Two
Straight, Boxy, or Swagger Types
Combination of Fitted and Swagger Silhouettes
Analysis of Vertical Seam Fitting to Produce Coat Pattern… How the Seamed Waistline May be Used with Panel Front… Front Fullness Introduced in Panel Style of Coat… How to Produce the True Boxy Silhouette with Padded Shoulder… Method Used to Produce a Swagger Silhouette Under Yoke… How a Single Design may be Adapted to Different Silhouettes …The Importance of Specialized Study for Careers in Coat Designing…
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Children's Clothing… Analysis of the Sizing of Children's Clothing... Trends in Fashion for Children's Clothing…Classification of Children's Sizes… Analysis of Children's Figures… How to Measure the Child's Figure to Make a Sloper… Children's Measurement Chart… How to Draft the Child's Front Sloper Pattern… How to Draft the Child's Back Sloper Pattern… How to Draft the Child's Sleeve Sloper… Adaptations of the Block for Children's Pattern Designs… Fullness under Yokes… Combination Fitting with Partial Waistline Seam… Vertical Fitting… Methods for Drafting Hoods…
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Description
Modern Pattern Design- by Harriett Pepin - First Edition 1942
Quality & Value
Each page has been carefully restored and digitally enhanced resulting in a quality better than the originals! An incredible value costing just a small fraction of the cost that you would pay for the originals
The CD
Every CD is laser etched on a color CD disc (colors may vary) and shipped within a secure mailer to your beautiful corner of the world . Each CDis carefully checked for quality control. You can feel confident you are purchasing a quality product.
PDF Format
To access the PDF files you will need to have Adobe Reader installed on your computer, you may download the Adobe Reader free of charge at [link removed by ]
Read right from your computer or print one page or the entire collection from your home printer. This is a user friendly program that will allow you to enlarge pages for closer details or view using large print.
Adobe Reader is compatible with Microsoft, Macintosh and many other operating systems
Copyright Information & Terms of Use Policy
The book featured in this CD is now in the public domain. I do not claim ownership of the original publications
Images in this PDF have been altered, restored etc., and are the sole propriety of Harlow Design Press ©2012 as are the graphics, descriptive text and all ad images.
I own the copyright on this body of work including individual files
*You May make and resale items from the patterns obtained in this PDF
But
*You May Not Reproduce and sell this PDF
*You May Not Reproduce and sell individual files or patterns from this PDF
*You May Not Duplicate this PDF in any other media format to be resold or shared in any form
If you are unsure as to whether or not your intended usage of this PDF would be in compliance with copyright law just email me
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*Import duties, taxes and charges are not included in the item price or shipping charges.These charges are the buyer's responsibility. Please check with your country's customs office to determine what these additional costs will be prior to offerding/buying.
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Return Policy
All CD’s listed are carefully inspected. I do not accept returns, all sales are final BUT in the event of a manufacturing defect a replacement will be sent immediately at no additionally charge.
Questions?
You and your questions are important to me. Please E-mail me with any inquiries and you shall receive a cheerful and speedy response
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What a Fabulous Addition to your Sewing/Design Collection!
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Merci Beaucoup & Please See My Other sales Très Fabuleuses !
