READY FOR IMMEDIATE DELIVERY!BBC CHEVY STAGE 6HYDRAULIC ROLLER CAM 496/505CUBIC INCH ENGINE 645 HP STREET ROD SETUP. RUNS ON PREMIUM PUMP GAS. WISECOFORGED PISTONS AND SCAT COMPETITION SERIES RODS, DART BIG M SPORTSMAN BLOCK, PC ALUMINUM HEADS320cc RUNNERS.

FULLY ASSEMBLED FROM INTAKE TO OILPAN

Introducing our Stage 6.0 Hydraulic Roller cam 505 cid, 645 hp at 6150 rpm engine, peak torque 600 lb/ft at 4,950 rpm. The build sheet is at the lower part of this listing.This engine is designed for street/strip use. Premium pump gas friendly.

Two year warranty, see details below.

This engine uses a brand new Dart Big M Sportsman block (standard deck height) with all new internals.

This engine is designed to have very high level of drivability, or street manners.

Here are a few good reasons why we think the 505 engine is a better choice than the 454 engines.

1. The 505 willaccelerate any heavy car much better than the common underpowered 454's on the market.

2. The exhaust note from the big block 505 is much deeper than that of the typical 454 engine.

3. Installing thisengine in heavy cars without killing acceleration, having todeepen the final gear, and needinga huge stall converter is a real plus. Thisengine will accelerate a 3800 lb vehicle much better than any 454.

4. Low maintenance and high drivability even in very heavy cars, while generating up to 645 hp at the same cost as building a 454 street rod engine.

5.Longevity and reliability.You don't have toturn the engine to a critical rpm range to produce its max hp output. There's nothing unsafeaboutrunningan enginethat's well built like this up to 6150 rpm.The hydraulicroller cam is very reliable and will not require a bronze distributor gear, as it has a normal cast gear. Our aluminum heads use very high quality hardware. All of our valves are from PBM, and are considered to be very high quality valves.

6.Should you ever decide to sell your car,theresale value of a street rod with a 505 stroker engine is very favorable compared to 454's.

7.The cost of the Stage 6.0 hydraulic roller 505 engine offers more value than any other 496/505 build-up on the market.

We do a full test run using an engine test mule on every 505 we build.The engine is run for two intervals of 20 minutes each, and every possible issue is addressed. When you receive the engine, it will be ready to install and run. We also include an engine stand as pictured, wheels included, and an engine lift plate.

Below is our dyno report on this engine. This is a new engine project, and changes will evolve over time.

We tested two different size carbs on our initial engine, and found the Quick Fuel Q-950 to be the perfect choice. The other carb choice was the 1000 cfm size. There was no gain in horsepower with the 1000 cfm. To improve the bottom end response and drivability, you should run the Q-950 cfm model.

Do not run a carb smaller than the a 950 cfm carb unless you have purchased a de-tuned version of this engine. If you want to run this engine in a heavy car or heavy duty truck, you should allow us to set it up with the 300cc oval port PC aluminum heads, and use the dual plane intake. Throttle response would be greatly improved, and mid-range power would come in a bit sooner. Vacuum would also be greatly improved.

As of 9/15/2013 we completed installation of our brand new Super Flow 902S dyno. In the past, we outsourced our dyno work. We were unable to do the research and development we truly wanted, and this prompted us to make the $105,000 investment. It’s been one of the best investments we have ever made. Every aspect of our engines can now be monitored, calibrated, and tuned. Best of all, we can now see what combos generate the best power, with consideration to drivability.

One thing we have noticed is that the de-tuned engines with different cam and intake combos certainly do have less top end horsepower than expected, but the torque increase in the low rpm range is much greater than in the higher horsepower setup. This increase in torque down low is what you want if you’re sporting around on the street, rather than all out racing. The de-tuned version of this engine will also allow you to set the car up closer to stock and increase drivability to a very high degree. Throttle response is also noticeably better.

We have also built a "house engine." We occasionally put this engine on our dyno to research different combos of cam, intake, and carb, as well as setting changes to optimize the engine. We're also putting this engine through a durability test to see how the parts hold up to extensive dyno testing. We have torn the engine down once already after approx. 60 hard dyno passes and found zero wear or failures on any of the parts. We tested cylinder leak down compression, bearing valve guides, and many other parts in the engine. We even tested our spring pressures to see how well they are holding up. We put the engine back together and will continue testing. Our objective is to build our engines to be as reliable as possible.

Important Notice.

This enginedoes notinclude a fuel pump. This engine is best suited to operate with an electric fuel pump, with a pressure regulator set at 6-6.5 psi. A 130 gph rated pump should be sufficient. If you have chosen the de-tuned version of this engine, then the 110 gph rated pump will suffice. It's best not use a higher capacity fuel pump than required. A chrome block off plate will be installed on the engine. The electric fuel pump system is a superior fuel delivery system compared to a mechanical system.

The build sheet is as follows:

Brand new Dart B-M Sportsman block with four bolt splayed main caps capable of handling up to 1200 hp. Fully interchangeable with any car or truck that has an early styleChevy engine. Our block has a standard deck height of 9.800. We start by blue printing the block on our new Centroid CNC block machine to exacting specs. The final honing is done on our Sunnen SV10 diamond honing machine. These two machines are far more advanced than the equipment used by most machine shops. Many machine shops claim to get the block to true blueprint standards, but seldom do. We also line hone every block on a Sunnen line hone machine.

20cc dome top fully forged Wiseco pistons, set flush to the deck. Quench zone will be approx .040. The Dart Big M Sportsman block is fully blue printed. This engine is bored and diamond finish honed to 4.350 and calculates out to be a true 505 cubic inch stroker engine. This engine is 100% brand new from top to bottom.

The compression range will be approx. 10.35:1. The Wiseco forged pistons are highly resistant to the damaging effects of detonation.

The Dart Sportsman block used for building our Stage 6.0 505 cubic inch engine has splayed four bolt main caps.

The Big M Sportsman block gives you the versatility to build a wide variety of engine combinations. A true priority system oils the main bearings before the lifters for extra reliability.Features:

- Standard 9.800" deck ht.- Siamesed extra thick cylinder walls to resist cracking and improve ring seal (minimum .300" thick with 4.625" bore).- Uses +.300" tall Gen VI style lifters.- Scalloped outer water jacket walls improve coolant flow around the cylinder barrels to equalize temperatures.- 4 bolt ductile iron main caps have splayed outer bolts for extra strength.- True priority main oil system lubricates the main bearings before the lifters. Our stepped main oil gallery (9/16" to 1/2" to 7/16") increases the flow of oil to the crank at high rpm, and our front oil crossover eliminates internal oil leaks around the distributor shaft.- Oil filter pad is drilled and tapped for an external oil pump.- Lifter valley head stud bosses prevent blown head gaskets.- Rear main cap uses standard oil pump and two piece seal - no adapter required!- Mechanical fuel pump boss, clutch linkage mounts, and side and front motor mounts simplifyinstallationin any chassis.- Dual oil pan bolt patterns fit standard and notched oil pans.

These blocks will accept mechanical fuel pumps.

Block has been decked to approx. 9.790. It is desirable to keep the deck as thick as possible, so as little as possible has been removed to correct any deviations. Our pistons have a taller than normal compression height. This allows the piston to have a very good quench zone. Most catalog pistons sit much lower in the block, and this may be desirable when used in old blocks that have had the deck milled down many times, but when installing such pistons in blocks that have a near stock deck height, the quench zone is very poor. We had our pistons custom made to address this issue. The quench zone on this engine will be at approx. .040.

The Stage 6.0 engine will fit perfectly in cars that have early BBC engines. There is no difference in the engine mount position. All early style transmission bell housings will mount to this engine.

PC aluminum heads with 320cc runners or for those wanting our de-tuned version, oval port 300cc heads will be used, 119cc combustion chambers. 2.250/1.88 stainless valves, 1.55 diameter dual roller springs. These cyl. heads are made by Procomp. We use our own hardware and do our own assembly.

We have madeat least 75 dyno pullswith the BBC PC (Procomp) heads, andtheyperformed faultlessly. We tested cam, carb, and ignition, as well as made sure the PC heads would not have any reliabilityissues whatsoever.Ourhead builder made special note about the excellentstyle ofcutting on the seats inthese heads. See important article concerning the PC heads at the bottom of the ad.

We know about combinations and how they work.

Our new Stage 6.0 engines are all built withthe PC 320 heads.

Here is a rundown on the hardware we are using.

NON MAGNETIC stainless steel PBM Competition Series valves, swirl finished one piece, undercut and backcut. We have used the same valve for years, with zero failures. Non magnetic is very important. Our cost on these valves is around doublethe price ofsome low cost valves on the market. Many head buildersuse the low costmagneticvalves, but we do not use themand never will. If the valves pull a magnet, they are not high temp stainless. They may be stainless, but they have very low nickel content in them.

Our springs are1.45 diameter dual springs, with an internal damper. Others are using springs that are much smaller in diameter. They may be in the correct spring pressurezone, but they are usually very short lived. We've had zero failures with oursprings.

We use only Comp Super10 degree machinedlocks. Our head builder found that most other no-name locks on the market fit looser than they should, leading to the engine becoming more prone to dropping a valve at high rpm.

Head gaskets are multi-layer stainless premium race grade series.

Scat9,000 series cast nodular steelcrank, 4.250 stroke. The 9000 Series crank is rated at 650+ hp.

Scat cast nodular crankshafts are manufactured from an exclusive Space Age cast steel material that was designed for high strength and fatigue resistance. The Scat cranks are 25% stronger than stock OEM cast cranks andare the best valueyou will ever find. The Scat crankshafts are the best wayto build a strong bottom end for your street rod, dirt track/circle track racing, and drag strip racing performance engine.

We also offer this engine with a 4340 forged crank, with HP Clevite bearings. See our other listings.

We do all balancing in house.

Our Scat crankshafts are brand new, factory sealed, not a blem. Beware of sellers offering no name cranks. We sell plenty of no name productsbutwe have seen too many issues with the no name cranks on the market.It just doesn't get better than Scat when it comes to crankshafts. The cost may be slightly higher than some of the others available, but we know for a fact that Scat is far superior to any of the other low cost or no-name cranks on the market.

Counterweights are profiled for 6.385"

4.250Stroke Crankshaft - 496 Stroker engines.

6.385" Connecting rod length

2.750" Main Journals - STD

2.200" Rod Journal - STD

2 Piece Real Main Seal

Muchstronger than stock OEM cast cranks

Precision ground and micro polished in the USA by Scat!

Chamfered oil holes for improved high RPM oiling

Horsepower rating: Up To 650+ HP

RPM Rating: to 7000 RPM

Notice the finish quality on the journal. This is the best finish we have ever seen on any brand of crankshaft. Our machinist who does the balancing made special note of how much harder these cranks were compared to any of the other cast nodular cranks on the market.

We now use the Clevite bearings in our engines.

GENUINE SCAT-ICR6385-7/16 BRONZE BUSHED CONNECTING RODS WITH GENUINE ARP 8740 CAP SCREWS ARE NOW USED IN ALL 505 & 555 ENGINES WE BUILD.

The Scat Pro-Competition Series extreme duty I-beam rods. 4340 Alloy. These rods are excellent for those wanting the extra security needed in highhorsepower applications. Take notice of the design of these rods. They are far superior to conventional style I-beam rods. We are now using these rods in most of our engines. The weight range is near identical to the Scat H-beam rods, approx 800 grams. If you do a Google search on the Scat Pro-Comp rods, you will find a vast amount of info on many car forums. All of the info is 100% positive. These rods are run in engines that not only produce high horsepower levels but also run at continuous RPM. Notice the general appearance in the pictures. These rods do look impressive. The style is reminiscent of a steel billet rod. The fact that these rods are incredibly strong and well made, coupled with the fact they offer better clearance than any H-Beam rod on the market, made it an easy decision to use these in most of our high horsepower street/strip engines.

The ultimate I-beam rod that incorporates the strength and technology of the H-beam rod

One rib cap design for added strength and bearing support

Polished beams to eliminate stress risers

Profiled clearance for stroker applications

Special hollow dowels and huge 7/16'' cap screw bolts greatly increase strength and horsepower capabilities

The ScatPro-Competitionextreme duty I-beam rods are not to be mistaken for conventional I-beam rods. They are not only designed better, but they are also made from a forged 4340 alloy and have 7/16's genuine ARPcap screws. 700hp rated.

We include a Pro-Race brand damper and Heavy duty race grade flexplate with your engine.

We carry most of the Pro Race line, and consider them a first rate product.

SFI APROVABLE FLEXPLATE INCLUDED.

SFI APROVABLE FLEXPLATE. This flexplate will resist cracking and warpage, leading to imbalance in the engine.One good telltalein identifying acheap flexplate is the lack of welding on eachside where the plate mates to the ring gear. They usually have a palegrey color to them, as they are not coated, and will rust quickly.Oursarewelded on both sides, and are approximately 30 thousandths thicker than an OEM plate, and are either zinc dichromate orblack powder coated. We would never use the thinner plate on anassembly like this.

We do offer this engine with a manual flywheel. In most cases we do have both sizes, 153 and 168 tooth, available.

WARNING: the flexplate and crank have a dowel pin hole. You must align the flexplateand crank dowel pin holes, but do not use a dowel pin. The flexplate was aligned to the crank when we balanced the assembly, and must be installed the same way.

Our custom made Wiseco forged pistons are made from 2618 aircraft alloy, and are capable of handling far more hp thana cast orhypereutectic piston.

We find this alloy to be much more suitable for high performance engines than the common 4032 forged alloy. You will usually see the higher end pistons on the market using 2618 aircraft alloy.

Howards cams are used in all of our engines. We find them to be the highest quality on the market.

Cam Choice # 1

Part number, custom grind.Lift Intake 575"/ exhaust .575"Duration @ .50 254/260 @ .050" 112+4L/C

Peak hp of 640 would come in around 6150 rpm. Peak torque of 600 lb/ft comes in at 4950. A 2500-2800 Stall converter is strongly recommended when using this cam and a final gear ratio of 3.23 or higher.

Cam specs. Cam choice 2

Custom grind.Cam choice # 2 offers increased drivability and improved low end power, with very little sacrifice of the max power as compared to cam choice # 1, a 15-20 hp decrease at the most. The torque numbers will remain nearly the same and come in approximately 250-300 rpm lower compared to cam choice # 1. Valve train stability is increased with this cam.By using cam choice # 2, your valve train will be much better off and longevity/reliability is certainly improved. Cam choice # 2 will allow you to run a near stock stall converter with a reasonably tall gear ratio, and overdrive is more of a possibility. Mileage with taller gearing is also a plus. This cam would be more suitable in heavy vehicles weighing over 3600 lbs and a must for those in the range of 4500 lb or greater. We would use a special order cam for those installing this engine in a heavy duty truck that may be used for towing.
HOWARDS TIE BAR MAX EFFORT HYDRAULIC ROLLER LIFTERS WILL BE USED.

Howards brand 3/8's chromoly pushrods. All of our BBC engines use Howards brand pushrods, made in the USA. Picutred below is a file photo. Our bbc engines use the larger diameter pushrods.

We only use USA made premium Howards brandpushrods, which are lightweight in design, yet very strong. Made in the USA from 4130 chromoly steel. Regular hardened pushrods will most likely flex in the engine when running above normal RPM ranges, and risk bending under high RPM. These do not have the welded ball on the end. We only use the swedged one pc. design, which is a well proven design far superior to the style many others use in engines. 4130 chromoly steel is also much stronger, and will resist flexing. When a pushrod flexes in the engine, you lose lift. Don't be misled by the term "hardened," as this is nothing more than a stock style low cost push rod. They will flex in the engine or possibly bend permanently.

We have several different options in valve covers. Here are our most common choices:

Single or dual plane satin finished intake (your choice). Your choice of valve covers.

This engine is 100% suitable in heavy duty trucks, but it is highly recommended that you go with the dual plane intake. The dual plane intake will improve bottom end response but reduce top end horsepower by a slight amount. If you're putting this engine in a vehicle that weighs over 4,000 lbs, then the dual plane intake may be more desirable, especially if your gearing is on the tall side. There are several options in the dual plane intake line. We can help you decide what's most suitable for your needs.

304 STAINLESS ALLEN HEAD INTAKE BOLTS ARE USED ON ALL OUR ENGINES.

GENUINE ARP HEAD BOLTS WITH SPECIAL Part Number
135-3607Part Type
Cylinder Head FastenersProduct Line
ARP High Performance Series Cylinder Head Bolt KitsFastener Style
BoltHead Style
HexFastener Material
ChromolyFastener Finish
Black oxideWashers Included
Yes

ARP ROCKER ARM STUDS ARE THE ONLY STUDS WE USE IN OUR ENGINES.

The timing components are the Cloyesbilletupper and lower double roller timing set.Part # 9-3670x3.

We use the top of the line Cloyes timing set. The difference in quality is dramatic compared to the common true double roller setup. The chain is made in Germany, and the sprockets are hardenedbillet steel(upper and lower) and made in the USA. These sets are hand matched for selective sizing.

The cost on this setup is approx $141, about four times the cost of the low level budget timing set used by many other engine builders. Should you ever want to confirm that this is what is actually in your engine, you can remove the timing cover, and you will notice the upper gear has a full array of lightening holes.

It may be overkill to use this expensive setup, but the attraction, besides being the most precise, is that it comes in three sizes. Many times a regular timing set will have too much tension in the chain. If the mains have been line bored or line honed, this can create a loose chain effect.

This top of the line timing set is offered in three different chain tension setups, allowing us to set it up perfectly every time. One more benefit is that timing accuracy is very precise and will remain that way. This timing set will likely last for the life of the engine. This is what you will find in most solid roller engines, as they have very high spring rates, and create an enormous load on the chain and gears, compared to non solid roller setups.

SCORPION RACING ALUMINUM ROLLER ROCKERS.

THE BEST HIGH PERFORMANCE RACING ROCKER ARMS MANUFACTURED IN THE USA.

All Scorpion Rockers Feature:

Needle Bearing Fulcrum and Roller Tip, Centerless Ground Trunnion, Centerless Ground Pin & Roller, Burr-Free Thru Hole in Trunnion, Large Machined Seat, Thick Walled Adjusting Nut, Pedestals Machined from Solid Steel, Black Oxide Coated Steel Parts, & 100% CNC Machined. Other benefits include:

• Available in all ratios
• Lightweight for maximum performance
• Easily handle .950” lift and 950 lbs of open spring pressure
• Clear 1.625” valve springs
• Micropolished surface finish for maximum durability
• Anodized for additional protection and aesthetics
• Exclusive LIFETIME WARRANTY - all series

The oil pump used is a Melling M-Select Series. This is our preferred choice. We will be using the M-10774 part number (at least triple the cost compared to the regular Melling M-77 oil pump used by most others). The oil pump drive rod will also be the M-Select chromium extreme duty series. This is another area where many engine builders cut corners. The low cost Melling oil pump would be ok on most mild SBC engines, but the BBC engines are more demanding of a good oil delivery system. The M-Select oil pump is used in all the high end street rod engines, and all of the high end race engines on the track use this series of oil pump. The oil pump is the heart beat of any engine.

The oil pans we use on all of our engines are made in the USA by Champ. The Champ oil pan has a full windage tray, crank scraper, and trap door. Threaded dipstick is included. Extreme duty pickup designed not to fail. The oil pan is made from a thicker than normal gauge material, and has embossed ribs in the body.

This is an extended capacity oil pan. The special pickup tube is designed for this oil pan. If you think you may have a clearance issue with the 8 qt pan, let us know and we can use the stock style pan.

The 8 qt pan is approx half an inch deeper than a stock pan, and the kickouts on the side are at the lower section of the sump. They start to swell outward about three inches from the bottom, approx. 3 inches or less on each side. Most vehicles have no problem with this type of pan and it's certainly a much better setup than a conventional oil pan.

The quality of these pans far exceed any of the lower priced oil pans used on many engines.

The oil pan gasket will be a geniune Felpro single pc. design as pictured above.

Our choice of oil pan fasteners is our premium studded mini nut set. The nuts in this kit have serrated faces and built in washers. This is the ultimate set for securing the oil pan to the engine, and is far superior to the typical bolts used by others. We use this same kit on our very high end engines.

Pictured below is our exhaust evacuation system. You may choose the breather/pcv setup or the exhaust evac. system. If you have chosen cam choice 1 or 2, then we highly recommend the exhaust evac. system.

The vacuum created by the engine is somewhat insufficient when using these larger cams, heads, carb and intake to operate a pcv system at its best, but the vacuum is also very erratic.The fuel to air ratio is somewhat erratic when using a pcv system on a street rod of this level.

The evac system will pull the crankcase gases out of the engine at a very smooth and controlled rate. This allows the rings to seat in much faster and better, and can increase horsepower to some degree by reducing crankcase pressure. Another benefit from the evac system is that you're not contaminating the fuel and air mixture with semi burned by-products from the engine oil, and combustion process.

Another downside to using the pcv system is that the vacuum levels are somewhat insufficient at medium to high rpm to handle the blow by gases generated especially with a new high compression engine. This lower than normal level of vacuum is a result of the size of the heads, cam, carb and intake. Couple this with the higher than normal compression ratio, and you may have problems from an excess of blow by gases building up in the crankcase. Oil leakage from engine seals and oil forced out of any possible orifice and around gaskets are common with engines that are unable to rid themselves of excess crankcase pressure.

On a stock low compression engine, the pcv system operates much better, but not as well as on a street rod or race engine. We will let you decide what setup you want. After the engine is completely broken in, the pcv setup will usually be sufficient, but it may not be the best choice. The break-in time may also be slower with the pcv setup.There is no up charge for the evac system.It requires some work to install, but it is relatively simple.

If you do choose the exhaust evac system, here are few other recommendations. The bullet style perforated mufflers such as those made by Magnaflow as well as many other companiesmustbe used. We believe they sound the best, but most importantly, they allow the exhaust evac system to work properly.The sound level is controlled by the length you choose. I find the 12-16 inch lengths sound the best. These mufflers have smooth perforated inner walls.These are not to be confused with traditional glass packs with fluted walls, which are very restrictive and have a somewhat sloppy sound.

Traditional chambered mufflers like Flowmaster create a back pressure pulse that will interfere with the operation of an exhaust evac. system. Chambered mufflers do help bottom end throttle response, but you will have a decent amount of bottom end power with this engine. The straight through perforated mufflers sound and perform better in every respect and they allow the proper use of an exhaust evac. system. More info. on this subject below.

You must run a crankcase ventilation system to pull gases from the crankcase, and we do supply this with the engine. You will have two choices. Usually thepcvsystem will work, but due to the erratic engine air speed, it may not work so well.

If you decided on cam choice two or three with this engine and have chosen our dual plane intake, then the common pcv system will be included with this engine, and should keep crankcase pressures normal.The best system to use is an exhaust evac system that is fed into the collector of your headers.

You cannot use the exhaust evac system if you have chambered mufflers such as FlowMasters or any brand of chambered muffler. You may run the exhaust evac system if you have straight through mufflers such as the ones made by Magnaflow, Corsa, Borla, and Bullet, etc. These mufflers have perforated walls and flow straight through. Regular chambered mufflers will interfere with the operation of an exhaust evac system. This system will gently pull gases from the crankcase at all times at a smooth consistent flow. Your engine rings will usually seat faster.

One other benefit of using an exhaust evac system is the reduction in oil leaks. Excessive crankcase pressure is the cause of many oil leaks.You will have your choice of vent system with this engine at no additional charge. The exhaust evac system has one serious drawback. The valves that connect into the headers have a somewhat short life, and when they fail they could cause crankcase pressures to rise greatly. They must be checked regularly.

Educate yourself on these systems before using them. You will find plenty of great information on the internet about them. They are great systems but require frequent maintenance and replacement of the valves. These valves are not costly, and testing to see that they are working is very simple. The labor to replace them is minimal. High mileage use or daily driving is just impractical with this system, and the standard pcv system would be more suitable.

HIGH QUALITY POLISHED ALUMINUM TIMING COVER. The timing cover seal and gaskets will be genuine Felpro. The cover pictured below does not have a Felpro seal in it, as the color would be blue. Yours will be a true Felpro timing cover seal.

Our new Stage 6.0 505 engine is premium pump gas friendly, with very good street manners.Neverrun regular 87 octane in this engine, premium only.Set total timing at 34 degrees. In vehicles weighing over 4,000 lbs, coupled with summer heat, lower total timing to 31-33 degrees. Should you ever hear any sign of pinging or clatter in the engine when accelerating, reduce timing one or two degrees regardless of what your timing reads. You can never totally trust the accuracy of timing components. For maximum power from this engine, we found the Quick Fuel Q-950 carb most suitable.

The machinists doing this work each have many years of experience in building racing engines. This very critical work is performed to exacting specs with great care.Of course, some vendors do not have machinists with the experience or the proper equipment that we are fortunate to have.

We are confident that the price we have on our engine will never be matched by our competition. If you have any application or technical questions, feel free to email or call us at [phone removed by ].

WARRANTY INFORMATION

This engine has aTwoYear Warranty with unlimited mileage.

• Should a major problem arise with this engine within the first year of use, the warranty covers all parts and labor and we will pay for shipping the engine both ways.

• Keep the crate your engine came in to ensure a safe return to our workshop.

• Wedo notcover the removal or re-installation of the engine at any time during the warranty period.

• Our engines must be used with a rev limiter. Should warranty issues arise, proof of the rev limiter use will be required.

• Should a problem occur in the first year of the warranty that we determine can be repaired by you or a qualified repair shop,upon our written approval,we will pay for the repair based on our in-house hourly rates for labor and our estimate of a reasonable amount of time to make the repair with the engineon a stand as you received it.To be specific, due to the difficulty of accessing certain engine parts in some vehicles, we arenotresponsible for the additional time and labor costs you may incur in removing and replacing such parts.

• In the second year, the warranty will cover all parts minus any labor to remove and install needed parts. The cost of shipping the engine to us is not covered in the second year of warranty.

• Tuning or maintenance are not covered under the warranty. Tuning includes jetting or adjusting the carb, ignition timing, or readjusting the rockers. Tuning would also include changing out plugs to optimize temp range for your needs. Setting ignition timing is also considered tuning. You must check the timing on this engine before it is driven.

• If you are not satisfied with the cam, intake or carb you have chosen, we will exchange any of these items. You will pay for shipping and any required labor.

• There is no additional charge for cam and intake swaps within the first 60 days of purchase.

• If a carb is returned as a swap for an upgraded carb, you will receive full credit for the cost of the original carb towards the cost of the upgraded carb. If a carb is returned for credit or as a swap for a carb of equal value, a restocking fee will be charged or deducted from the cost of the returned carb.

• Damage due to detonation or extreme abuse will not be covered by the warranty.Detonation damage is evident upon removal of the cyl. heads.

Always feel free to give us a call if you have a question about tuning.

You can enjoy your engine with occasional spirited driving, as it is well designed for it, but we will not cover damage caused by racing or improper tuning. A rev limiter and fuel to air ratio monitoring device must be used on this engine. The rev limiter should be set to cut off at its peak horsepower or less if you choose, and this should allow many years of service without a problem.

The carb should be tuned to allow the correct fuel to air ratio. This ratio can vary depending on many factors such as altitude, vehicle weight, gearing, type of driving, etc. These values should be in the recommended safe zone.

Continue reading for more detailed information on timing and carburetion. You must follow the oil recommendations listed below.

Special note.

For engines equipped withsolidroller cams, the warranty on the valve train components is for 60 days. You may never have a problem with any of the components, but excessive street driving at cruising speed can adversely affect these components.

Solid roller setups on BBC engines should not be driven for excessively long distances or for long periods of time on the street. A weekend of racing at the drag strip would likely have less of an effect on the valve train components than a 100 mile easy drive.

If you do think you will be driving significant numbers of miles, we strongly recommend going with our hydraulic roller cam package. The warranty on the hydraulic roller cam and valve train components is the same as the rest of the engine. See our other listings for info on all of our engines.

Tuning, maintenance, and oil recommendations.

This engine must be maintained with oil specifically designed for high performance engines. The life of the engine can be greatly extended if you run a race grade engine oil such a Valvoline VR1 or the many other race grade engine oils on the market. Most are available in synthetic grade for those who prefer it. However, we recommend running non synthetic racing oil for at least 1000 miles to ensure the rings have seated completely.

Rather than using mileage as an indicator of ring sealing, it’s better to use oil consumption as a guide.We highly recommendValvoline VR1Racing oil in the silver bottle. This brand of oil has an exceptional reputation, and is used by many high performance engine builders, racers, and many street rod owners. This oil is totally suitable for street use. You don't have to run the off road series racing oil. The street/strip series in the light silver bottle is suitable.

The 10w-30 weight is recommended for year round use on SBC engines, and BBC engines may run the 20w-50 grade during hot weather, but not during temps below 30 degrees. BBC engines are known for fluctuations in oil pressure moreso than the SBC engines, so the heavier weight oil may stabilize oil pressure readings. However, the 20w-50 should not be used during very cold winter weather.

Oil pressure of 50-60 lbs in the upper rpm range on a fully warmed up engine is nothing to worry about. You may also notice that oil pressure drops at idle to approx 25-30 lbs when the engine is fully warmed up during very hot weather. This is somewhat common and no cause for alarm.

If your engine has a Dart block, then it has priority main oiling. This block routes the oil in a very different pathway compared to a GM block. The mains and rod bearings as well as the crankshaft are well protected with an ample supply of oil even when the oil pressure numbers are lower than you think they should be.

You may permanently run a 20w-50 grade oil if your engine is a big block if you feel it will help the oil pressure, and it sometimes does. Small block engines may even make use of the heavier weight oil, but only in the warmest of weather. We have implemented many safeguards in the build of our engines to stabilize the oil pressure. It is recommended that your first run of oil should be the 20w-50 weight. This allows a greater amount of protection to the engine during the initial break-in period.

Racing oil must be changed more often than conventional oil. Every 2000 miles or less would be optimal.

There are many special additives in race grade oils that are not in conventional oil. These additives are very valuable for high performance engines.Neveradd anything to racing oil. This oil has exactly what is needed to protect a high performance engine. Some of these oils will state that they are low or possibly non-detergent, and that is a desirable trait of racing oil.

The anti foaming agents in race grade oils are much better than what you would find in conventional motor oil.Race grade oils have higher than normal amounts of the zinc compounds in them, and there are many components in the engine that can make great use of these additives.

If you are running a mechanical fuel pump on our engine, you absolutely must follow the oil guidelines to the letter.

We recommend running an electric fuel pump on this engine due to the higher than normal eccentric cam lobe failure rate experienced with engines running a mechanical fuel pump.

The high volume mechanical fuel pumps put an additional strain on the eccentric fuel pump lobe on the cam, and modern roller cam technology may not be addressing the eccentric cam lobe design like it once did years ago, since very few people are running mechanical fuel pumps anymore and the roller cams and lifters do not require these special treatments.

Modern oils further the problem due to the absence of high levels of the zinc compounds they once had. These factors can spell doom for the eccentric cam lobe on the cam in these engines.

If you insist on running a mechanical fuel pump, then using arace grade oil becomes essential. To further protect the cam, we offer a very special fuel pump rod made from an ultralight material.It’s made from a proprietary blended, carbon reinforced, bearing-grade polymer.This fuel pump rod only weighs 25 grams, and is very strong yet gentle on the eccentric cam lobe.

Unlike the common light weight hollow rod on the market, this rod is one third the weight, and a bit more costly. By reducing the reciprocating mass of the fuel pump rod, the load on the eccentric cam lobe is greatly reduced. We offer this rod in our other listings.

As for oil filters, we recommend ACDelco, selected K&N, Moroso, or any of the other high quality oil filters on the market.

Be aware that some K&N filters have a very low micron rating, and we don't recommend them.All oil filters have a micron particle rating. If you want to run a low micron rated oil filter during the break-in period, that would be acceptable. Do not run the engine at high rpm during this break-in period with a low micron oil filter. The filtration on these oil filters is high, but the restriction is also very high and may reduce oil flow (volume) when running at wide open throttle or when the engine is cold.

We have seen some filters rated up to 61 micron size, and these would be great to run at the track, but we find its micron rating on the high side and may not provide as much protection as a filter with a lower micron rating.

Filters in the micron range of 20-25 offer the best overall protection and do not interfere with oil flow/volume to any great extent. AC Delco and K&N filters have a very strong case and this is very desirable if you have purchased one of our engines with a Dart block. The Dart block has a priority main oiling system, and pressure in the oil filter can be very high when the engine is cold. You must always allow the engine to warm up completely before any hard acceleration.

In our Dart block, the Wiseco forged pistons that we use arenot madefrom the low expansion 4032 alloy material. Our pistons are all made from 2618 Aircraft alloy. This type of alloy has a greater amount of expansion in the bore until fully warmed up, but not as much as some of the all out race pistons. Nonetheless, they do have more clearance until warmed up. Therefore, let the engine warm up before accelerating all out. You can start up and go at a normal driving pace with it cold for 10 min. or longer.

You must use a rev-limiter on this engine. Should you have a warranty issue, proof will be required. A rev-limiter will allow you the freedom to drive without having to monitor the tach. Every car from the factory has this feature. Set the limiter to the peak hp rating of this engine or less for added protection.

You must run a crankcase ventilation system to pull gases from the crankcase, and we do supply this with the engine. You will have two choices. Usually thepcvsystem will work, but due to the erratic engine air speed, it may not work so well.

If you decided on cam choice two or three with this engine and have chosen our dual plane intake, the common pcv system will be included with this engine, and should do well with keeping crankcase pressures normal.

However, we believe that the best system is an exhaust evac system that is fed into the collector of your headers. You cannot use the exhaust evac system if you have chambered mufflers such as Flow Masters or any other brand of chambered muffler.

You may run the exhaust evac system if you have straight through mufflers such as the ones made by Magnaflow, Corsa, Borla, and Bullet, etc. These mufflers have perforated walls and flow straight through. Regular chambered mufflers will interfere with the operation of an exhaust evac system. This system will gently pull gases from the crankcase at all times at a smooth consistent flow. Your engine rings will usually seat faster.

One other benefit of using an exhaust evac system is the reduction in oil leaks. Excessive crankcase pressure is the cause of many oil leaks.You can choose the type of vent system you want with this engine at no additional charge.

The exhaust evac system has one serious drawback. The valves that connect into the headers have a somewhat short life, and when they fail, they could cause crankcase pressures to rise greatly. They must be checked regularly.

Educate yourself on these systems before using them. You will find plenty of great information on the internet about them. They are great systems but require frequent maintenance and replacement of the valves.

These valves are not expensive, and testing to see that they are working is very simple. Replacing them is also very easy. High mileage use or daily driving is impractical with this system, and the standard pcv system would be more suitable.

Engine break in:As soon as your engine is installed,check and reset the timing if needed.Get the car on the road as soon as possible, and run the engine in a somewhat aggressive mode, not exceeding 4,500 rpm for the first few hundred miles.

Drive safely please; we’re not asking you to drive fast or aggressively. Just keep your engine under load more than normal. Drive it in a very inefficient manner. Keep the engine with load against it, and bring the rpm up and back down to seat the rings much better and faster. This allows the rings to expand in a perfect circle and with greater pressure against the cylinderwalls to establish an even wear pattern.

Besides for tuning, another reason that race engines are dynoed is to put a good number of passes on the engine under heavy load, as this will seat the rings very quickly, making the engine somewhat ready for racing. Failing to do this not only delays the break-in, but can permanently stop the engine from establishing a good wear pattern on the cylinderwalls.

If you have opted for our dyno-tuned version of this engine then ring seating will be partially established. The dyno has a computer controlled break-in mode that we use before doing any dyno testing for power output. Should you opt for the dyno tuning package, it does not mean that your engine is ready for synthetic racing oil. Your engine will continue to seat the rings in to an even higher degree after 300-500 miles of driving.

VERY IMPORTANT NOTICE

This engine doesnotcome with oil in it. The oil that was used during the test run or dyno tuning will be drained as this is required by the shipping companies. We also prefer draining the oil as this gives us a chance to examine it for of metal particles. We use aSystem Onereusable filter on the engine during test running or dyno tuning. The filter is removed and is also closely examined for metal particles or debris. To prevent oil from dripping onto the shipping pallet, we re-install a new medium length regular spin-on oil filter.

You must prime this oil filter. Priming is not done when changing oil on a well broken-in warm engine that has been running moments before changing the oil. Your new engine that has been sitting around for weeks, if not months, MUST be primed.

You may replace the oil filter that comes on the engine with a brand that you prefer, but do opt for the medium lengthversion, as this will help maintain oil pressure and volume much better than the short version.

If your engine has our Champ stock appearance pan on it, fill with approx 5-6 qts.

If you have the extended capacity Champ pan with kick outs then you will use approx. 7.5-8qts of oil. Just remember to fill/prime the oil filter with oil before starting the engine.

Carburetion,timing, spark plugrecommendation.

You must be sure that your air to fuel ratio is correct.We strongly recommend purchasing a fuel to air ratio monitor.

If your carb is running too lean, detonation is at your door.

If it is excessively rich, cylinder wash-down from excessive fuel will destroy your bore finish, pistons, and rings quickly.

A tad on the rich side is not a problem, and can help resist detonation; a tad on the lean side will generate the most power and increase fuel mileage.

The optimal air to fuel ratio is approx. 13.5:1 Set total timing at 32-34. Total timing refers to the reading at 3500-4000 rpm. Do not worry about initial timing, as it will be determined by the total timing. The closer to the low side of the total timing numbers mentioned above, the safer your engine will be.

Should you ever hear valve clatter or pinging as it may be called, at any time, reduce (retard) the timing just enough to eliminate it. Timing that is set just below valve clatter will allow the engine to run at its strongest, and if you pull an additional degree or two out, it will be less likely to experience detonation. When timing is set towards the low side you will notice that the engine accelerates, not faster, but smoother, with less of a short winded tight feel to it.Neverrun regular gas, no matter how much you have reduced the timing. You may run regular fuel in an emergency situation, but do not load the engine with heavy acceleration.

Let any engine with compression numbers above 10:1 clatter and ping for very long, and you will lose the engine due to detonation, and in some cases this can happen very quickly.

If you set the timing too low, the engine will run poorly and not idle properly, and may also run hot.

Never use the vac. advance on any of our engines. It will not function as it was intended due to erratic low air speed at idle and mid range rpm. You will not have a problem with how the engine runs without it.

Be sure to have a high amperage battery and high quality starter. The battery must be 850 cca or more. Use heavy gauge battery cables. If you have a hard cranking issue, purchase an in-car timing controller. This will allow you to control your timing for optimal performance and ease of starting.

Factors that determine the need for reduced timing:

·very high outside temp

·heavy weight cars or trucks

·taller than normal gearing

·lower octane fuels, such as 91 vs 93

Spark Plugs:We recommend theAutolitebrand, part number Autolite3923. Most of our engines include the correct spark plugs. We also offer a premium NGK plug that is highly suitable for this engine. Racing grade plugs are fine as they have a few features that are desirable for certain types of driving. Keep the temp in the low to middle range. Use a plug that's too hot, and you are once again close to detonation/pre-ignition; use a plug that's too cold and they will foul constantly, run poorly when cruising at low speed, and be difficult to start.

Some of our engines come with spark plugs in them, depending on the package you purchase. You may also use NGK part # NGK 4544, a plug that is one step lower in heat range than the Autolite plug.

You would be amazed at how much better an engine will run with the correct spark plugs installed, but brand name has little do with this. It's more to do with heat range than any other factor. Factors such as outside temp, altitude, compression ratio, and the type of driving you do determine the temp range to run. You can run the coldest plug you can get by with.

A very slight loss of power is also an issue with plugs that are too cold, as well as possible difficulty in starting. However, you can have much more serious issues by running plugs with high temp ranges.

Keep the engine coolant temp as low as possible, but it is not a problem if it runs as high as 210 on very hot days, as long as it's consistent, and not climbing.

Neveruse pure antifreeze. A 50/50 mixture or even slightly less antifreeze will cool the engine better than a rich mixture of antifreeze. Get the temp down if possible, but don't worry if you can't get it below 210 on a hot summer day. The cooler you keep the engine, the lower the risk of detonation. Set engine idle at approx. 900-950, and never too far below this.

If your carburetor is not functioning correctly it can ruin your engine. If your carburetor size is more than one step in either direction from the recommended size, it can cause an imbalance in the fuel to air ratio, and be nearly impossible to tune.

Proper jetting is also a must. Never let the engine idle for excessively long periods during the break-in period.

Do not overfill with engine oil. Slightly less than normal is better than too much, in most cases.

When setting the carb choke, we recommend setting it on the mild/lean side. It is best for the choke to open up to its full straight up position as quickly as possible. Keep backing it off until cold starting becomes difficult.

If the choke is set up on the aggressive side, it will create an over-rich condition upon every cold start-up and warm-up. This over-rich condition is very damaging to an engine.

If you feel you can get by without a choke, then by all means do without it! The modern day carbs actually do well with very little or no choke. With a few pumps of the throttle and a bit of feathering, the throttle will have you off and going smoothly, in most cases with very little or no choking at all.

Valve trainmaintenance.

Should you ever hear a change in sound on a solid roller setup, it is imperative that you address it immediately. If one or more of the rockers becomes loose, it could indicate something serious. If it’s a rocker that has loosened up on its own, and is left this way, it could be destructive in time.

Only allow a true hard core hotrodderadjust the valve train, especially a solid roller setup. It will take about an hour to completely go over every rocker, and it is well worth doing after a season or less of running. Every year, we advise removing the intake and inspecting the complete roller lifter on any solid roller setup, as well as thepushrodends, rocker seats and valve tips. Also check for broken outer or inner springs.

Hydraulic roller setups are virtually maintenance-free and very long lived compared to a solid roller setup.

Our recommendations will change from time to time.We never stop trying to build a better engine, and we learn from our own experiences and from response from our customers. We know there’s always room for improvement. We’re always working on research and development, as does any successful business. We advise checking out the recommendation section of our engine ads on a regular basis.

Why have we given such detailed information on our warranty and maintenance suggestions? Some customers bought our engines and did not fully understand our warranty and the maintenance needs of the engines.

Not knowing is understandable, but failing to educate yourself on the do's anddon'tsis asking for problems. We suggest joining a few good car forums, as they have a wealth of great information.

However, beware of individuals on forums who think they know it all, and really know very little. Do your research using several sources, and be sure to read between the lines.

Skip White

Your engine booklet will include the balance sheet and other information on this engine such as, cam card, and your invoice will show your personal selection of the options offered. Misty Moore is in charge of the production of this booklet. We usually mail this out prior to shipping the engine. Should you fail to receive this, feel free to contactMisty at [phone removed by ].

THIS ENGINE USES THE BEST PARTS. WE’VE REVIEWED WHAT THE COMPETITION IS OFFERING, AND WE’RE 100% CONVINCED WE ARE OFFERING A FAR BETTER VALUE.

Many have asked why we’re able to sell such an engine for such a great price. It’s because we’re also a major distribution center for all of the parts used in this engine, as well as a full scale machine shop. Our purchase price for the parts used in this and all of our engines are at master warehouse distributor (WD) pricing. Few machine shops ever get to master-wd pricing. We also believe in keeping our profit levels low enough to allow the working man a chance to build his car the way it should be built.

A final note.

Our user id is:skipwhite, and our store name is whiteperformance1. You may have noticed other sellers using a similar name offering similar products. These other sellers have capitalized on our name as we see it, and many customers searching for us will inadvertently find them, thinking we are one in the same company. There is only one "Skip White" We are the original premier seller under this name since approximately 2002. We have no other names, nor are we associated with any other company regardless of the similarity in the name or location. Our official company name is Skip White Performance.

We are often asked if the Dart Sportsman block is able to handle high horse power builds. If you're building this for street and strip applications, then this block will handle most anybuild-up you do. 1200-1500 hp builds are not uncommon with this block. Durability and longevity with high horsepower builds are not a problem with the Dart Sportsman block. Nos, twin turbo, blower, high compression builds are also not a problem. The Dart Sportsman block should last a lifetime on a street rod, even if built up to 1200 hp. You will also find this block used in many marine applications.

Pictured below is our Centroid cnc block blueprinting machine. The machine stands nearly 10 feet tall and weighs approx. 6,000 lbs.

Pictured above is the Centroid DRX 750 at last year's SEMA show. All were impressed by this machine's performance. This is one of the most advanced block blueprinting machines on the market.

Note from Skip White, President.
I have reviewed similar 496/505 engines on the market, and I've found many of the parts used to be substandard and overpriced. When I use the term "substandard," I mean relative to the price charged. However, some sellers have parts in their engines that are prone to failure. The machine work or lack thereof on many of these blocks may also pose a problem. Many vendors sell BBC engines at similar prices, but most of them use crusty old 454 blocks. These 30-40 year old blocks are past their prime and, even when they were new, made a very poor foundation for an engine generating over 600 horsepower. If you see the term, "seasoned block" in the build parts list of an engine, that is indicative of of an old junkyard block that's seen many hard miles. They are not suitable for engines built in the 600 hp and higher range. The last two pc. rms seal 454 was built was back in the 80's.
The design differences in the Dart Sportsman block are very impressive and essential for high performance builds. The cylinder walls on the Dart block are nearly half an inch thick when bored to the range used in this engine, and will allow many future rebuilds. The old 454 blocks have much thinner cylinder walls, which are prone to cracking and do not handle heat well. Building a 505 with a stock GM block will not allow any future rebuilds, and is at a comprised level and prone to overheating issues. Even when built to a 496 size, the stock GM block has been bored .060 over, and is not ideal for those in warm climates.
The priority oiling system used in the Dart block is far superior to what GM had on the OE blocks. Many of the similar 496/505 engines on the market fail to say exactly what is used in their engine builds, or at best will only give you brand names of the items such as oil pumps, gaskets, timing chain model, pistons, hardware, etc. Most of the items used in these engines are the lower cost version.
For the most part, many of the components used in our engines are far from the lowest cost version on the market. They are in the middle ground, or better. This is why I feel it necessary to mention all of the items in detail used in our engine, as I feel they make the difference in reliability and longevity.
If you want to make a true comparison, then you should request a full build sheet, including brand and the actual part number or description of all parts being used, from our competitors. Some of the items used in this engine are actually lower cost/lower grade, but have nothing to do with reliability or longevity of the engine. These lower cost items keep the price reasonable but do not compromise reliability.
For those wanting a higher grade engine, then see our other listings for the Stage 7 555 engine. It has 100% premium rated parts from top to bottom, and is still very reasonably priced.
We have the most advanced machinery available on the market. Our CentroidDRXblock and decking machine cost $80,000. We torque plate hone the cylinder walls using a state of the artSunnenSV10 diamond hone. Very few shops have this model. It not only produces a superior bore finish that allows a faster break-in time, but it also creates a very straight and uniform finish with virtually no distortion or variance in thecyl. walls. This machine cost us approx. $60,000. Most of the very high end engine builders are now using this model.
Those offering high performance engines for sale and not disclosing what machines are used on them is unsettling to me. Many of our customers have asked if they can tour our shop before buying an engine, and we certainly welcome this.
Do feel free to ask any questions you have about this engine. Our tech support line is [phone removed by ] or email us your questions using the contact tab associated with this ad.
Note on car forums.

A word about car forums, often a source of knowledge, confusion, and ignorance. We have good and bad press on the Procomp heads. There are significant errors in the bad press that can lead to a herd mentality and leaving potential customers greatly misinformed or confused.

I was hesitant to write this but the time has come, and I have a good bit to say on the subject, so get your reading glasses cleaned and ready.

Seven to 10 years ago, Procomp did have a few issues in the developmental phase of their cylinder heads. We did very little business with them in the way of cyl. heads and noticed a few minor problems with them. That is when we chose heads from another supplier.

About 4 years ago, Procomp pleaded with us to check out their new and very much improved cyl. heads, so we did. We cut the cylinder heads in half, ran flow numbers, checked runner and combustion chamber sizes, guides, seats, casting quality, and fit, etc. We critiqued the BBC heads in every possible way and found them to be totally acceptable.

To be clear, we only feel this way about the Procomp big block heads, not their small block heads.

We performed extensive dynoing for our engine program. With our choice of hardware, these heads produced excellent results; far better than we expected. Problems with these heads have been few and far between. We would not be using them on this engine and warranty it for 2 years with unlimited mileage if there were any chance of problems developing.

Some problems experienced by others were caused by using low-grade or incorrect hardware. This is why we are very selective in our choice of hardware. In recent months, we have eliminated three hardware items that we suspected could cause potential long term problems, and we will continue to pay close attention to hardware and its effects on the heads.

As of 1/1/2013, we have sold at least 6,000 sets of these heads and I can promise you I can count on my fingers, and possibly a few toes, the heads that have had issues in the last 4 years.

Why do some forums over-hype the bad press concerning these heads? These heads certainly have good press as well as bad. Poor hardware used by many sellers was behind some of the complaints, but there are other reasons for the bad press.

Many forum members purchased high end cylinder heads instead of the lower cost Procomps thinking it was required for building a decent mid level street rod. They did so upon the advice of people who didn't really know what was suitable for their needs.

Some purchased the premium heads because they are able to afford the best and truly appreciate the finer aspects of a high end set of heads for use on engines built to a "Pro-street" level or close to it. This certainly makes good sense.

Some purchased the high end heads just for bragging rights or as a badge of honor.They have adorned the engine with a high end set of heads to impress others at car shows and on car forums. This is fairly common behavior, but many of these people feel compelled to criticize or belittle others using the lower cost products. They make disparaging comments about these people and the products they use with the sole intent to make the lower cost products seem less impressive. This behavior allows them to justify their somewhat foolish investment on high-end cylinder heads for a middle of the ground street rod.

This unjust criticismoften leads to a herd mentality on the car forums.None of these people have any real knowledge of the Procomp heads. These make believe "high brows" are pretending to possess great intellectual knowledge, oftensprouting flow numbers and jargon they really don't understand, and hope you don't.They often pretend to have engines making hp numbers about as accurate as the how much they bench pressed back before you knew them.

There are plenty of these on the car forums. They are quick to bring up the offshore origin of the Procomp heads, claiming that should be reason enough not to purchase them. Ironically, their illustrious high end heads are surrounded by a cornucopia of offshore parts, including items like Eagle or Scat cranks and rods, housed in a block possibly made in Mexico by GM, and dozens of other items made in a land far away.

You usually can't see these products when you look at their engine and they really don't want to talk about it, so don't ever ask them. Upon closer inspection of their high-end heads, you may find his ego in there somewhere, and thereinlies the problem. At that point don't even mention Procomp cylinder heads being a decent product with excellent value.

Many of the offshore parts used in engines are totally acceptable and good quality. Some are not. We certainly know where to draw the line with offshore products, and we continue to draw that line by eliminating the use of parts that we once accepted but that may have potential problems sooner or later.In the rare event you have issues with our Procomp heads, the problem will be addressed.

I believe thehigh end head market has gained a larger than deserved foothold in the market place for the reasons stated above.So next time you visit a car forum, and I do recommend it, be sure to read between the lines, and feel free to share your experience with forum members.

This article is the result of my being fed up with so many distasteful people that troll the car forums. I won't be surprised to see it quoted on some of these forums.

This video is of our company race car owned and operated by Skip White. The engine in the car at the time this video was made is our Stage Three SBC 400 engine with 535 hp. The Stage 6 505 cid engine would have made a huge difference in acceleration.

NOTE: It is very important that you save your engine crate in the event that you need to return the engine to us for any reason. When the engine arrives, be sure to check the crate for any damage. If you notice any damage to the crate, then make note of this on the sign off sheet that the driver will ask you to sign, and take pictures while the driver is present if possible. This will assist us in making a claim for damages. We have made this engine crate nearly indestructible, but some freight companies have still managed to damage our engines. Please inspect the crate when it arrives, and do take pictures if you notice any damage.

Email us for shipping cost for overseas delivery. We have excellent sources for low cost shipping anywhere in the world.

We have now included a flat rate shipping fee on this engine within the 48 continental states.This rate only applies to delivery to a business with the capability to unload the engine without the use of a lift gate. You must have a dock or fork lift. We can have the engine delivered to a residence with lift gate service but at an additional cost.

Your engine will be in a crate on a pallet, and you will receive a roll around engine cradle, at no additional cost. The value of the engine cradle is approx. $49.00. Your engine will also be fully insured. You are welcome to pick up your engine in person, and eliminate the shipping cost. Should you decide to come in, you are welcome to take a tour of our facility.

RETURN POLICY

If an items needs to be returned forANY REASON,the customer MUST CALL FOR AN AUTHORIZATION from us. The item must be LABELED CORRECTLY and include a copy of the ORIGINAL RECEIPT inside the package. It is preferable that you use the original package that the product was received in. You MUST label the OUTSIDE of the package with the ATTN to representative that gave authorization written in BIG BOLD LETTERS on the OUTSIDE of the package AND on the receipt inside the package. You must also explain in writing what the problem is with the item. It is preferable that you enclose this information in a packing slip attached to the box.

We cannot stress how vitally important this is in regards to getting your return taken care of in a prompt manner. If the item comes back to us UNLABELED and/or NO RECEIPT inside the box, the return WILL NOT BE PROCESSED.

If the item is unclaimed for more that 7 days, the returned item will be marked return to sender if allowed by carrier. If return to sender is not allowed by carrier, the item WILL BE DISCARDED.

We are NOT RESPONSIBLE for any returns received that are not properly authorized and labeled correctly.

Please call for authorization [phone removed by ]. Please haveuser name, date of purchase, and item number(s) when calling for return authorization. If the item is defective, we will pay the shipping in both directions for up to 30 days.Beyond30 days you will be required to pay the shipping to send the product to us. We will always pay the shipping to return the replacement item to you.

We are not responsible for collateral damage caused by the use of this product.

PAYMENT AND SHIPPING DETAILS

WE OFFER GREATDISCOUNTS ON SHIPPING. YOUONLYPAY THE FULL SHIPPING FEEON THE HIGHEST SHIPPING COST OF YOUR ITEMS, ANDHALF PRICESHIPPING ON ALL ADDITIONAL ITEMS. FEW OFFER DISCOUNTS ON SHIPPING SUCH AS THIS.EMAIL US USING THE"ASK THE SELLER A QUESTION"TABIF YOU WOULD LIKE US TO CALCULATE YOUR SHIPPING COST ON MULTIPLE ITEM ORDERS.YOU MAY ALSO REQUESTAN INVOICE AT TIME OF CHECKOUT. IF YOU ARE UNABLETO CONTACT US BY EMAIL PLEASEGIVE US A CALL AT[phone removed by ]FROM8AM-8PM EASTERN TIME MON-FRI AND 10AM-3PM ON SAT.WE WILL ANSWER YOUR EMAILWITHIN THEONE BUSINESS DAYIN MOST CASES,SO KEEP SHOPPING AND PAY HALF PRICE SHIPPING ON ALL ADDITIONAL ITEMS. OUR CHECKOUT SYSTEM WILL AUTOMATICALLY CALCULATE YOUR SHIPPING DISCOUNT AT TIME OF PAYMENT,SO LONG ASYOU CONSOLIDATE YOUR PAYMENT.

If you checkout and start over, the auto calculator will not recognize the multiple purchases, and there will be no shipping discount. Should you decide to start purchasing again after checking out, you willneed to contact us so we can calculate your shipping for you.

IF YOU ARE HAVING DIFFICULTY PAYING WITH PAYPAL, FEEL FREE TO GIVE US A CALLAT[phone removed by ].SALES AND CUSTOMER SERVICEHOURS OF OPERATION ARE8AM-8PMMON-FRI &10AM-3PMSAT EASTERN TIME ZONE

FOR TECH SUPPORT, PLEASE USE THE"ASK SELLER A QUESTION TAB". IT'S LOCATED AT THE TOP RIGHT HAND SIDE OF THIS PAGE. YOU MAY ALSO CALL FOR TECH SUPPORT IF YOU'RE UNABLE TO EXPLAIN WHAT YOU NEED IN AN EMAIL. TECH SUPPORT IS USUALLY NOT AVAILABLE UNTIL AROUND10AM-5PMMON-FRI EST.

FedEx is our primary shipper. Weare unable toship to APO/FPO addresses. Help us ship your order promptly by including your physical address at checkout.If your order MUST be shipped to aPOBOX, please contact us by phone. Additional charges may apply. Below is a map representing the estimated delivery time to get to youfrom our location.

FedEx Home Delivery delivers Tuesday - Saturday. If apackage leaves here on aThursday, and youare in a 2 day deliveryzone, your package will deliver to you on Saturday.If you are in a3 day zone, and your package leaves on aThursday, you will not receive it until Tuesday.Expedited shipping is available upon request for an additional fee. Please contact us forrates.

HawaiiandAlaskahave a 6+ dayestimated delivery time.

The shipping quoted in this ad is only for the48 continentalUnited States. If shipping to anywhere else, please give us a call or email us for quotes. The half price shipping on all additional items also only applies to items that are being shipped in the 48 continentalUnited States. If you have any questions, you may give a call at[phone removed by ].

Pay with your credit card through PayPal, or call us at [phone removed by ]