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CHEVY BBC 572 STAGE 8.0 CRATE MOTOR, DART BLOCK, AFR HEADS, HYD. CAM. 745 HP
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CHEVY BBC 572 STAGE 8.0 CRATE MOTOR, DART BLOCK, AFR HEADS, HYD. CAM. 745 HP
Price: US $9750.00
BBC CHEVY STAGE 8.0HYDRAULIC ROLLER CAM 572 CUBIC INCH ENGINE745HPSTREET ROD SETUP. 725 lb/ft torque at 4600 rpm RUNS ON PREMIUM PUMP GAS. FORGED CRANK & WISECO PREMIUM PISTONS AND SCAT H-BEAM RODS, DART BIG M BLOCK, AFR ALUMINUM HEADS.

The pictures above and below of the engine are file photos of our 505 engine build. The actual 572 engine looks much better as we have upgraded many of the parts. We will update the pictures very soon.

FULLY ASSEMBLED FROM INTAKE TO OILPAN.

Introducing our Stage 8.0 Hydraulic Roller cam 572 cid 745 hp at 5900 rpm 725 lb/ft at 4800 rpm torque engine. The build sheet is at the lower part of this listing.This engine is designed for street/strip use. Premium pump gas friendly 91/93 octane. Compression ratio is 10.50:1 with a .040 quench zone.

Two year warranty, see details below.

This engine uses a brand new Dart Big M Sportsman roller block with all new forged internals and isdesigned to have a very high level of drivability, or street manners.

Here are a few good reasons why we think the 572 engine is a better choice than the 496 engines.

1. The 572 will quickly accelerate any heavy car compared to any of the street rod 454 or 496 engines on the market.

2. The exhaust note from the big block 572 is very deep and strong even at idle.

3. Installing thisengine in heavy cars without killing acceleration, or having todeepen the final gear. No need for a huge stall converter is a real plus. Thisengine will accelerate any size car on the road with great ease.

4. Low maintenance and decent drivability even in very heavy cars, generating up to 745 hp at a cost only slightly higher than building a 496 engine. Horsepower will vary, depending on cam and intake choice.

5. Longevity and reliability.You don\'t have toturn the engine to a critical rpm range to produce max hp output. There\'s nothing unsafe aboutrunningan engine as well built as this up to 6200 rpm.The AFR heads use have very high quality hardware.

6. Should you ever decide to sell your car, theresale of a street rod with a 572 stroker engine is very favorable compared to those running 540\'s.

We do a full test run on every 572 we build. The engine is run for two intervals of 20 minutes, and every possible issue is addressed. When you receive the engine, it will be ready to install and run. We also include an engine stand, as pictured, wheels included, and an engine lift plate.

As of 9/15/2013 we completed installation of our brand new Super Flow 902S dyno. In the past, we outsourced our dyno work. We were unable to do the research and development we truly wanted, and this prompted us to make the $105,000.00 investment. It’s been one of the best investments we have ever made. Every aspect of our engines can now be monitored, calibrated, and tuned. Best of all, we can now see what combos generate the best power, with consideration to drivability.

One thing we have noticed is that the de-tuned engines with different cam and intake combos certainly do have less top end horsepower than expected, but the torque increase in the low rpm range is much greater than in the higher horsepower setup. This increase in torque down low is what you want if you’re sporting around on the street, rather than all out racing. The de-tuned version of this engine will also allow you to set the car up closer to stock and increase drivability to a very high degree. Throttle response is also noticeably better.

We have also built a \"house engine.\" Every week, we put this engine on our dyno to research different combos of cam, intake, carb, as well as setting changes to optimize the engine. We also test the durability to see how the parts hold up to extensive dyno testing. We have torn the engine down once already after approx. 60 hard dyno passes and found zero wear or failures on any of the parts. We tested cylinder leak down compression, bearing, valve guides, and many other parts in the engine. We even tested our spring pressures to see how well they hold up. We put the engine back together and will continue testing. Our objective is to build as reliable engines as possible.

Anyone can pump up the compression and increase the cam size on an engine to achieve high horse power numbers, and with very little increase in cost, but there are many drawbacks to doing this. For starters, the fuel requirements will usually go from premium pump gas to race fuel or at least being on the edge of pump gas limits. The engine has to turn a good bit more rpm to achieve the increased power. Usually the increased size in cam moves you into the use of a solid roller setup. The life expectancy of these parts are compromised with street use when running the rpm in the upper limits and driving on the street. One more nasty drawback to bringing up horse power numbers with these methods is that the drivability or street manners are greatly affected. The need for a larger stall converter, and deeper final gears become a must, and very heavy cars do poorly with the loss of bottom end power. This is all good and well if your into serious Pro-Street driving and set your car up for such, but for longevity and good driving characteristics what we have came up with is will serve your needs best. Bottom line is beware of sellers offering engines producing higher than normal horse power numbers with the engine setup up on-kill for street use. We have seen plenty advertised like this. The life of such engines on the street is not very long if driven as a daily driver, not to mention having compression levels on the edge detonation when running pump gas. We use a combination of efficiency and a bit of street rod build tactics to get the horse power numbers where they are.

Considering the fact that this engine has a hydraulic roller cam that is below 640 lift and the heads are 325cc runner size, with 10.50:1 compression ratio and still generate this kind of power safely on premium pump gas, proves we have the combination of parts correct. The carb used was a traditional style Quick Fuel Q-1000 cfm straight out of the box no modifications other than jetting. The drivability of this engine will be very good at low to medium speeds. The torque this engine produces will assure incredible acceleration at nearly any starting point in the rpm band. We have six engine builders and all of them agree that they would personally go with this setup in the big block engine world.

Important Notice.

This engine does not include a fuel pump. This engine is best suited to operate with an electric fuel pump, with a pressure regulator set at 6-6.5 psi. A 130 gph rated pump should be sufficient. If you have chosen the de-tuned version of this engine, then the 120 gph rated pump will suffice. It\'s best not use a higher capacity fuel pump than required. A chrome block off plate will be installed on the engine. The electric fuel pump system is a superior fuel delivery system compared to a mechanical system.

The build sheet is as follows:

Bore and stroke configuration.

+10cc dome top fully forged top of the line Wiseco Premium forged pistons. The block is bored and diamond finish honed to 4.560 and the crank stroke is 4.375 and this calculates out to be a 572 cubic inch engine. All parts internal and external are brand new first line products. The rotating assembly is fully forged. Several rebuilds are still left in the Dart Sportsman block.The compression range will be approx. 10.50:1

Brand new Dart B-M Sportsman block with four bolt splayed main caps capable of handling 1500hp. Fully interchangeable with any car or truck that has an early style Chevy engine. Our block has a standard deck height of 9.800. We start by blue printing the block on our new Centroid CNC block machine, to exacting specs. The final honing is done on our Sunnen SV10 diamond honing machine. These two machines are far more advanced than what most machine shops use.

The Dart Sportsman block used for building our Stage 9.0 572 cubic inch engine has splayed four bolt main caps.

The Big M Sportsman block gives you the versatilityto build a wide variety of engine combinations. A true priority main oilingsystem oils the main bearings before the lifters for extra reliability.Features:

- Standard 9.800\" deck ht.- Siamesed extra thick cylinder walls to resist cracking and improve ring seal(minimum .300\" thick with 4.625\" bore).- Uses +.300\" tall Gen VI style lifters.- Scalloped outer water jacket walls improve coolant flow around the cylinderbarrels to equalize temperatures.- 4 bolt ductile iron main caps have splayed outer bolts for extra strength.- True priority main oil system lubricates the main bearings before thelifters. Our stepped main oil gallery (9/16\" to 1/2\" to 7/16\")increases the flow of oil to the crank at high rpm, and our front oil crossovereliminates internal oil leaks around the distributor shaft.- Oil filter pad is drilled and tapped for an external oil pump.- Lifter valley head stud bosses prevent blown head gaskets.- Rear main cap uses standard oil pump and two piece seal - no adapterrequired!- Mechanical fuel pump boss, clutch linkage mounts, and side and front motormounts simplifyinstallationin any chassis.- Dual oil pan bolt patterns fit standard and notched oil pans.

Block has been decked to approx. 9.795. It is desirable to keep the deck as thick as possible, so as little as possible has been removed to correct any deviations. Our pistons have a taller than normal compression height. This allows the piston to have a very good quench zone. Most catalog pistons sit much lower in the block, and this may be desirable when used in old blocks that have had the deck milled down many times, but when installing such pistons in blocks that have a near stock deck height, the quench zone is very poor. We had our pistons custom made to address this issue.

The Stage 9.0 engine will fit perfectly in cars that have early BBC engines. There is no difference in the engine mount position. All early style transmission bell housings will mount to this engine.

AFR aluminum cylinder heads. 325cc runner size.

We have several different options in valve covers. Here are our most common choices:

Single or dual plane satin finished intake (your choice). Your choice of valve covers.

This engine is 100% suitable in heavy duty trucks, but it is highly recommended that you go with the dual plane intake for use in heavy vehicles. The dual plane intake will improve bottom end response but reduce top end horsepower by a slight amount. If you\'re putting this engine in a vehicle that weighs over 4,000 lbs, then the dual plane intake may be more desirable, especially if your gearing is on the tall side. There are several options in the dual plane intake line. We can help you decide what\'s most suitable for your needs.

Scat 4340 forged steelcrank, 4.375 stroke.

We do all balancing in house.

Our Scat crankshafts are brand new, factory sealed, not a blem. Beware of sellers offering no name cranks. We sell plenty of no name productsbutwe have seen too many issues with the no name cranks on the market.It just doesn\'t get better than Scat when it comes to crankshafts. The cost may be slightly higher than some of the others available, but we know for a fact that Scat is far superior to any of the other low cost or no-name cranks on the market.

  • Pictured below is the crank journal before micro-polishing. We bring the RA finish down to 10 or less with our ABS crank polisher.

  • We now use the Clevite H series bearings in this engine.


    We use the Genuine Scat brand heavy duty 6.385 H-beam rods with ARPCap Screws.

    WISECO FULLY FORGEDDOME TOP 2618 AIRCRAFT ALLOY PISTONS RATED AT UP TO 900 HP. THESE PISTONS ARE VERY RESISTANT TO THE DAMAGE CAUSED BY DETONATION COMPARED TO 4032 FORGED PISTONS. WISECO PISTONS ARE MANUFACTURED IN THE USA. THEY ARE ONE OF THE HIGHEST RATED PISTONS IN THE COUNTRY.



    Our Wiseco Racing pistons different compared to many others is the alloy they are made from. Many of the forged pistons that are in the lower cost range use a forged 4032 high silicone alloy. This is certainly a cut above the regular hypereutectic pistons on the market but it is still one step down from forged 2618 aircraft alloy, at least in respect to resistance against the effects of detonation. Our pistons are all custom made with 2618 aircraft alloy only. They have a redesigned skirt that virtually eliminates piston rattle when cold.



    4.560 FILE FIT- Mahle Racing Ring Set - 1/16, 1/16, 3/16.
    Cam specs coming soon. This add is under construction at this moment.


    Cam specs. Cam choice 1

    Peak hp of 745 will come in at 5900 rpm with this cam. A 2500-2800 Stall converter is strongly recommended when using this camand a final gear ratio of 3.23 or numericaly higher. For improved drivability, we strongly recommend using cam choice # 2 listed below.
    Cam specs. Cam choice 2
    Cam choice # 2 is a favorite of ours for increased drivability and very impressive low end power. Very little sacrifice off the max power as compared to cam choice # 1, usually a 20-25 hp decrease. The torque numbers will remain nearly the same and come in approximately 200 rpm lower as compared to cam choice # 1. Valve train stability is positively increased with this cam.
    Any BBC engine that runs a hyd. roller cam with 620 lift or greater is nearing the point of valve train instability due to the heavy valves used in BBC engines and the geometry of the valve train. Couple this with rpm in the range of 6000 or greater, and valve float is possible with high lift and duration when using a hydraulic roller style cam. Our cam choice # 2 has a lower lift and duration and the engine will make its max power at a lower rpm. The chance for valve train instability is greatly reduced.
    We have experienced mild valve float on many of our BBC engines using the larger cam choice # 1 during dyno testing to see where max power began to fall off on different cubic inch and tuning combos. We have found the max power to come in right on the heels of valve float when using these large hyd. roller cams. By using cam choice # 2, we feel that your valve train will be much better off and longevity/reliability and drivability will be improved.
    Cam choice # 2 will allow the use of a lower rpm stall converter with a reasonably tall gear ratio. Vaccum is slightly improved. Better mileage with taller gearing is also a plus. This cam would be more suitable in heavy vehicles weighing over 3800 pounds and a must for those in the 4200 pound or greater range.
    For those installing this engine in a heavy duty truck that may be used for towing, we would use a special order cam, with a reduction in head runner size, and slightly lower compression.
    COMP CAMS SHORT TRAVEL HYDRAULIC ROLLER LIFTERS WILL BE USED.
    Howards brand 3/8\'s chromoly pushrods.

    This is the only type of pushrod we use in our engines. They arelightweight in design, yet very strong. Made in the USA from 4130 chromoly steel. Regular hardened pushrods will most likely flex in the engine when running above normal RPM ranges, and risk bending under high RPM. These do not have the welded ball on the end. We only use the swedged one pc. design, which is a well proven design far superior to the style many others use in engines. 4130 chromoly steel is also much stronger, and will resist flexing. When a pushrod flexes in the engine, you lose lift. Don\'t be misled by the term \"hardened,\" as this is nothing more than a stock style low cost push rod. They will flex in the engine or possibly bend permanently.


    Pictured below is our exhaust evacuation system. You may choose the breather/pcv setup or the exhaust evac. system. If you have chosen cam choice 1 or 2, then we highly recommend the exhaust evac. system.

    The vacuum created by the engine is somewhat insufficient when using these larger cams, heads, carb and intake to operate a pcv system at its best, but the vacuum is also very erratic.The fuel to air ratio is somewhat erratic when using a pcv system on a street rod of this level.

    The evac system will pull the crankcase gases out of the engine at a very smooth and controlled rate. This allows the rings to seat in much faster and better, and can increase horsepower to some degree by reducing crankcase pressure. Another benefit from the evac system is that you\'re not contaminating the fuel and air mixture with semi burned by-products from the engine oil, and combustion process.

    Another downside to using the pcv system is that the vacuum levels are somewhat insufficient at medium to high rpm to handle the blow by gases generated especially with a new high compression engine. This lower than normal level of vacuum is a result of the size of the heads, cam, carb and intake. Couple this with the higher than normal compression ratio, and you may have problems from an excess of blow by gases building up in the crankcase. Oil leakage from engine seals and oil forced out of any possible orifice and around gaskets may occur with engines that are unable to rid themselves of excess crankcase pressure.

    On a stock low compression engine, the pcv system operates much better, but not as well as on a street rod or race engine. We will let you decide what setup you want. After the engine is completely broken in, the pcv setup will usually be sufficient, but it may not be the best choice. The break-in time may also be slower with the pcv setup. There is no up charge for the evac system. It requires some work to install, but it is relatively simple.

    If you do choose the exhaust evac system, here are few other recommendations. The bullet style perforated mufflers such as those made by Magnaflow as well as many other companiesmustbe used. We believe they sound the best, but most importantly, they allow the exhaust evac system to work properly.The sound level is controlled by the length you choose. I find the 12-16 inch lengths sound the best. These mufflers have smooth perforated inner walls.These are not to be confused with traditional glass packs with fluted walls, which are very restrictive and have a somewhat sloppy sound.

    Traditional chambered mufflers like Flowmaster create a back pressure pulse that will interfere with the operation of an exhaust evac. system. Chambered mufflers do help bottom end throttle response, but you will have a decent amount of bottom end power with this engine. The straight through perforated mufflers sound and perform better in every respect and they allow the proper use of an exhaust evac. system. More info. on this subject below.

    You must run a crankcase ventilation system to pull gases from the crankcase, and we do supply this with the engine. You will have two choices. Usually thepcvsystem will work, but due to the erratic engine air speed, it may not work so well.

    If you decided on cam choice two or three with this engine and have chosen our dual plane intake, then the common pcv system will be included with this engine, and should keep crankcase pressures normal.The best system to use is an exhaust evac system that is fed into the collector of your headers.

    You cannot use the exhaust evac system if you have chambered mufflers such as FlowMasters or any brand of chambered muffler. You may run the exhaust evac system if you have straight through mufflers such as the ones made by Magnaflow, Corsa, Borla, and Bullet, etc. These mufflers have perforated walls and flow straight through. Regular chambered mufflers will interfere with the operation of an exhaust evac system. This system will gently pull gases from the crankcase at all times at a smooth consistent flow. Your engine rings will usually seat faster.

    One other benefit of using an exhaust evac system is the reduction in oil leaks. Excessive crankcase pressure is the cause of many oil leaks.You will have your choice of vent system with this engine at no additional charge. The exhaust evac system has one serious drawback. The valves that connect into the headers have a somewhat short life, and when they fail they could cause crankcase pressures to rise greatly. They must be checked regularly.

    Educate yourself on these systems before using them. You will find plenty of great information on the internet about them. They are great systems but require frequent maintenance and replacement of the valves. These valves are not costly, and testing to see that they are working is very simple. The labor to replace them is minimal. High mileage use or daily driving is just impractical with this system, and the standard pcv system would be more suitable.

    304 STAINLESS ALLEN HEAD INTAKE BOLTS ARE USED ON ALL OUR ENGINES.

    ARP head bolts are used in the Stage 8.0.


    ARP HEAD BOLTS PART # 135-3607
    ARP ROCKER ARM STUDS ARE THE ONLY STUDS WE USE IN OUR ENGINES.

    The timing components are the CloyesRace Billet SetPart # 9-3670x3

    We use the top of the line Cloyes timing set. The difference in quality is dramatic compared to the common true double roller setup. The chain is made in Germany, and the sprockets are hardened billet steel upper and lower. These sets are hand matched for selective sizing. The cost on this setup is approx $141.00, approximatelythree times the cost of the low level budget timing set used by many other engine builders.

    Should you ever want to confirm that this is actually in your engine, you can remove the timing cover, and you will notice the upper gear has a full array of lighting holes in it, as seen in the picture above.It may be overkill to use this expensive setup, but the attraction, besides being the most presicion and durable made, is that it comes in three sizes. Many times a regular timing set may have too much or too little tension in the chain, and the Race Billet series is the only one offered in three sizes.

    One more benefit of this premium timing set is that timing accuracy is very precise and will remain that way. This timing set will likely last for the life of the engine. This is what you will find in most solid roller race engines, as they have very high spring rates, and create an enormous load on the chain and gears, compared to non solid roller setups.

    SCORPION ENDURANCE SERIES ALUMINUM ROLLER ROCKERS

    THE BEST HIGH PERFORMANCE RACING ROCKER ARMS MANUFACTURED IN THEUSA.

    The Endurance Series Scorpion rockers are the best offered by this company. The reason we have chose the more expensive Endurance series over the regular Scorpion race series is that they weigh considerably less, and it is very desirable to keep weight low as possible on bbc engines running hydraulic roller cams that have higher than normal lift and duration. This helps reduce the chance of valve float, or flutter in the upper rpm range. We will also be experimenting with the Comp Gold Arch series rockers on our next engine. They are not as light in weight but still much lighter than some of the other roller rockers on the market. The Gold Arch series has a special design in the rocker body that further resists flexing during high rpm. The Scorpion Endurance series and the Comp Gold Arch are both the premium line in each brand. We will decide between the two on our next 572 engine build.

    All Scorpion Rockers Feature:

    Needle Bearing Fulcrum and Roller Tip, Centerless Ground Trunnion, Centerless Ground Pin & Roller, Burr-Free Thru Hole in Trunnion, Large Machined Seat, Thick Walled Adjusting Nut, Pedestals Machined from Solid Steel, Black Oxide Coated Steel Parts, & 100% CNC Machined. Other benefits include:

    • Available in all ratios
    • Lightweight for maximum performance
    • Easily handle .950” lift and 950 lbs of open spring pressure
    • Clear 1.625” valve springs
    • Micropolished surface finish for maximum durability
    • Anodized for additional protection and aesthetics
    • Exclusive LIFETIME WARRANTY - all series

    The oil pump used is a Melling M-Select Series. This is our preferred choice. We will be using the M-10774 part (more than double the cost compared to the regular Melling M-77 oil pump used by others). The oil pump drive rod will also be the M-Select chromium extreme duty series.

    The oil pans we use on all of our engines are made in the USA by Champ. The Champ oil pan has a full windage tray, crank scraper, and trap door. Threaded dipstick is included. Extreme duty pickup designed not to fail. The oil pan is made from a thicker than normal gauge material, and has embossed ribs in the body.

    This is an extended capacity oil pan. The special pickup tube is designed for this oil pan. If you think you may have a clearance issue with the 8 qt pan, let us know, and we can use the stock style pan.

    The 8 qt pan is only approx half an inch deeper than a stock pan, and the kickouts on the side are at the lower section of the sump. They start to swell outward about three inches from the bottom approx. 3 inches or less on each side. Most vehicles have no problems with this type of pan, and it\'s certainly a much better setup than a conventional oil pan.

    The quality of these pans far exceed any of the lower priced oil pans used on many engines.


    Our choice of oil pan fasteners is our premium studded mini nut set. The nuts in this kit have serrated faces and built in washers. This is the ultimate set for securing the oil pan to the engine, far superior to the typical bolts used by others. We use this same kit on our very high end engines.

    We did not offer the billet timing pointer in the past, but we noticed that from the driver side of the engine, there was a birds eyeviewof the timing pointer, so we decided to use these on all of our engines.


    The actual flexplate appearance may vary, with either the zinc dichromate finish or a black powder coat finish.

    This is an extremely heavy duty flex plate. The plate section is 1/3 thicker than the OEM stock model, and is double welded on each side. Your actual flexplate is balanced with the rotating assembly. Those running manual trans will need a flywheel. We do offer this item at an additional cost.

    We include a Pro-Race brand damper and Heavy duty race grade flexplate with your engine.

    We carry most of the Pro Race line, and consider them a first rate product.

    HEAVY DUTY FLEXPLATE INCLUDED.

    HEAVY DUTY FLEXPLATE. This flexplate will resist cracking and warpage, leading to imbalance in the engine.One good telltalein identifying acheap flexplate is the lack of welding on eachside where the plate mates to the ring gear. They usually have a palegrey color to them, as they are not coated, and will rust quickly.Oursarewelded on both sides, and are approximately 30 thousandths thicker than an OEM plate, and are either zinc dichromate orblack powder coated. We would never use the thinner plate on anassembly like this.

    We do offer this engine with a manual flywheel. In most cases we do have both sizes, 153 and 168 tooth, available.

    WARNING: the flexplate and crank have a dowel pin hole. You must align the flexplateand crank dowel pin holes, but do not use a dowel pin. The flexplate was aligned to the crank when we balanced the assembly, and must be installed the same way.


    HIGH QUALITY POLISHED ALUMINUM TIMING COVER.

    Our new Stage 8.0 572 engine is premium pump gas friendly, with very good street manners. Never run regular 87 octane in this engine, premium only.Set total timing at 32-34 degrees. In vehicles weighing over 4,000 lbs, coupled with summer heat, lower total timing to 31-33 degrees. Should you ever hear any sign of pinging or clatter in the engine when accelerating, reduce timing one or two degrees regardless of what your timing reads. You can never totally trust the accuracy of timing components. For maximum power from this engine, we found the Quick Fuel Q-950 carb most suitable. Carb is not included with this engine.

    IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT DE-TUNING

    For thosewith very heavy vehicles, such as4x4 trucks and full size SUV\'s, 3/4 and 1 ton trucks,and crew cab/ex-cab trucks, plus trucks that may dotrailer towing, I strongly recommend the de-tuned 8.0 version of this engine. The cam choice would be one or two steps down, depending on the size of your truck and what you plan to do with it.

    The machinists doing this work each have many years of experience in building racing engines. This very critical work is performed to exacting specs with great care.Of course, some vendors do not have machinists with the experience or the proper equipment that we are fortunate to have.

    The price we have on our engine will never be matched by our competition, this we are confident of. If you have any application or technical questions, feel free to email or call us at [phone removed by ]


    WARRANTY INFORMATION


    This engine has aTwoYear Warranty with unlimited mileage.

    • Should a major problem arise with this engine within the first year of use, the warranty covers all parts and labor and we will pay for shipping the engine both ways.
    • Keep the crate your engine came in to ensure a safe return to our workshop.
    • Wedo notcover the removal or re-installation of the engine at any time during the warranty period.
    • Our engines must be used with a rev limiter. Should warranty issues arise, proof of the rev limiter use will be required.
    • Should a problem occur in the first year of the warranty that we determine can be repaired by you or a qualified repair shop,upon our written approval,we will pay for the repair based on our in-house hourly rates for labor and our estimate of a reasonable amount of time to make the repair with the engineon a stand as you received it.To be specific, due to the difficulty of accessing certain engine parts in some vehicles, we arenotresponsible for the additional time and labor costs you may incur in removing and replacing such parts.
    • In the second year, the warranty will cover all parts minus any labor to remove and install needed parts. The cost of shipping the engine to us is not covered in the second year of warranty.
    • Tuning or maintenance are not covered under the warranty. Tuning includes jetting or adjusting the carb, ignition timing, or readjusting the rockers. Tuning would also include changing out plugs to optimize temp range for your needs. Setting ignition timing is also considered tuning. You must check the timing on this engine before it is driven.
    • If you are not satisfied with the cam, intake or carb you have chosen, we will exchange any of these items. You will pay for shipping and any required labor.
    • There is no additional charge for cam and intake swaps within the first 60 days of purchase.
    • If a carb is returned as a swap for an upgraded carb, you will receive full credit for the cost of the original carb towards the cost of the upgraded carb. If a carb is returned for credit or as a swap for a carb of equal value, a restocking fee will be charged or deducted from the cost of the returned carb.
    • Damage due to detonation or extreme abuse will not be covered by the warranty.Detonation damage is evident upon removal of the cyl. heads.
    • Special note.

      For engines equipped with special ordersolidroller cams, the warranty on the valve train components is for 30 days. You may never have a problem with any of the components, but excessive street driving at cruising speed can adversely affect these components.

      Solid roller setups on BBC engines should not be driven for excessively long distances or for long periods of time on the street. A weekend of racing at the drag strip would likely have less of an effect on the valve train components than a 100 mile easy drive.

      If you do think you will be driving significant numbers of miles, we strongly recommend staying with our hydraulic roller cam package. The warranty on the hydraulic roller cam and valve train components is the same as the rest of the engine. See our other listings for info on all of our engines.

    Always feel free to give us a call if you have a question about tuning.

    You can enjoy your engine with occasional spirited driving, as it is well designed for it, but we will not cover damage caused by racing or improper tuning. A rev limiter and fuel to air ratio monitoring device must be used on this engine. The rev limiter should be set to cut off at its peak horsepower or less if you choose, and this should allow many years of service without a problem.

    The carb should be tuned to allow the correct fuel to air ratio. This ratio can vary depending on many factors such as altitude, vehicle weight, gearing, type of driving, etc. These values should be in the recommended safe zone.

    Continue reading for more detailed information on timing and carburetion. You must follow the oil recommendations listed below.

    Tuning, maintenance, and oil recommendations.

    This engine must be maintained with oil specifically designed for high performance engines. The life of the engine can be greatly extended if you run a race grade engine oil such a Valvoline VR1 or the many other race grade engine oils on the market. Most are available in synthetic grade for those who prefer it. However, we recommend running non synthetic racing oil for at least 1000 miles to ensure the rings have seated completely.

    Rather than using mileage as an indicator of ring sealing, it’s better to use oil consumption as a guide.We strongly recommendValvoline VR1Racing oil in the silver bottle. This brand of oil has an exceptional reputation, and is used by many high performance engine builders, racers, and many street rod owners. This oil is totally suitable for street use. You don\'t have to run the off road series racing oil. The street/strip series is suitable.

    The 10w-30 weight is recommended for year round use on SBC engines, and BBC engines may run the 20w-50 grade during hot weather, but not during temps below 40 degrees. BBC engines are known for fluctuations in oil pressure moreso than the SBC engines, so the heavier weight oil may stabilize oil pressure readings. However, the 20w-50 should not be used during winter weather.

    Oil pressure of 50-60 lbs in the upper rpm range on a fully warmed up engine during hot weather is nothing to worry about. You may also notice that oil pressure drops at idle to approx 25-30 lbs when the engine is fully warmed up during very hot weather. This is somewhat common and no cause for alarm.

    If your engine has a Dart block, then it has priority main oiling. This block routes the oil in a very different pathway compared to a GM block. The mains and rod bearings as well as the crankshaft are well protected with an ample supply of oil even when the oil pressure numbers are lower than you think they should be.

    You may run a 20w-50 grade oil if your engine is a big block if you feel it will help the oil pressure, and it sometimes does. Small block engines may even make use of the heavier weight oil, but only in the warmest of weather. We have implemented many safeguards in the build of our engines to stabilize the oil pressure.

    Racing oil must be changed more often than conventional oil. Every 2000 miles or less would be optimal.

    There are many special additives in race grade oils that are not in conventional oil. These additives are very valuable for high performance engines.Neveradd anything to racing oil. This oil has exactly what is needed to protect a high performance engine. Some of these oils will state that they are low or possibly non-detergent, and that is a desirable trait of racing oil.

    The anti foaming agents in race grade oils are much better than what you would find in conventional motor oil.Race grade oils have higher than normal amounts of the zinc compounds in them, and there are many components in the engine that can make great use of these additives.

    If you are running a mechanical fuel pump on our engine, you absolutely must follow the oil guidelines to the letter.

    We recommend running an electric fuel pump on this engine due to the higher than normal eccentric cam lobe failure rate experienced with engines running a mechanical fuel pump.

    The high volume mechanical fuel pumps put an additional strain on the eccentric fuel pump lobe on the cam, and modern roller cam technology may not be addressing the eccentric cam lobe design like it once did years ago, since very few people are running mechanical fuel pumps anymore and the roller cams and lifters do not require these special treatments.

    Modern oils further the problem due to the absence of high levels of the zinc compounds they once had. These factors can spell doom for the eccentric cam lobe on the cam in these engines.

    If you insist on running a mechanical fuel pump, then using arace grade oil becomes essential. To further protect the cam, we offer a very special fuel pump rod made from an ultralight material.It’s made from a proprietary blended, carbon reinforced, bearing-grade polymer.This fuel pump rod only weighs 25 grams, and is very strong yet gentle on the eccentric cam lobe.

    Unlike the common light weight hollow rod on the market, this rod is one third the weight, and a bit more costly. By reducing the reciprocating mass of the fuel pump rod, the load on the eccentric cam lobe is greatly reduced. We offer this rod in our other listings.

    As for oil filters, we recommend ACDelco, selected K&N, Moroso, or any of the other high quality oil filters on the market.

    Be aware that some K&N filters have a very low micron rating, and we don\'t recommend them.All oil filters have a micron particle rating. If you want to run a low micron rated oil filter during the break-in period, that would be acceptable. Do not run the engine at high rpm during this break-in period with a low micron oil filter. The filtration on these oil filters is high, but the restriction is also very high and may reduce oil flow (volume) when running at wide open throttle or when the engine is cold.

    We have seen some filters rated up to 61 micron size, and these would be great to run at the track, but we find its micron rating on the high side and may not provide as much protection as a filter with a lower micron rating.

    Filters in the micron range of 20-30 offer the best overall protection and do not interfere with oil flow/volume to any great extent. AC Delco and K&N filters have a very strong case and this is very desirable if you have purchased one of our engines with a Dart block. The Dart block has a priority main oiling system, and pressure in the oil filter can be very high when the engine is cold. You must always allow the engine to warm up completely before any hard acceleration.

    The Wiseco forged pistons that we use arenot madefrom the low expansion 4032 alloy material. Ours are all made from 2618 Aircraft alloy. This type of alloy has a greater amount of expansion in the bore until fully warmed up, but not as much as some of the all out race pistons. Nonetheless, they do have more clearance until warmed up. Therefore, let the engine warm up before accelerating all out. You can start up and go a mild driving pace with it cold for 10 min. or longer.

    You must use a rev-limiter on this engine. Should you have a warranty issue, proof will be required. A rev-limiter will allow you the freedom to drive without having to monitor the tach. Every car from the factory has this feature. Set the limiter to the peak hp rating of this engine or less for added protection.

    You must run a crankcase ventilation system to pull gases from the crankcase, and we do supply this with the engine. You will have two choices. Usually thepcvsystem will work, but due to the erratic engine air speed, it may not work so well.

    If you decided on cam choice two or three with this engine and have chosen our dual plane intake, the common pcv system will be included with this engine, and should do well with keeping crankcase pressures normal.

    However, we believe that the best system is an exhaust evac system that is fed into the collector of your headers. You cannot use the exhaust evac system if you have chambered mufflers such as Flow Masters or any other brand of chambered muffler.

    You may run the exhaust evac system if you have straight through mufflers such as the ones made by Magnaflow, Corsa, Borla, and Bullet, etc. These mufflers have perforated walls and flow straight through. Regular chambered mufflers will interfere with the operation of an exhaust evac system. This system will gently pull gases from the crankcase at all times at a smooth consistent flow. Your engine rings will usually seat faster.

    One other benefit of using an exhaust evac system is the reduction in oil leaks. Excessive crankcase pressure is the cause of many oil leaks.You can choose the type of vent system you want with this engine at no additional charge.

    The exhaust evac system has one serious drawback. The valves that connect into the headers have a somewhat short life, and when they fail, they could cause crankcase pressures to rise greatly. They must be checked regularly.

    Educate yourself on these systems before using them. You will find plenty of great information on the internet about them. They are great systems but require frequent maintenance and replacement of the valves.

    These valves are not expensive, and testing to see that they are working is very simple. Replacing them is also very easy. High mileage use or daily driving is impractical with this system, and the standard pcv system would be more suitable.

    Engine break in:As soon as your engine is installed,check and reset the timing if needed.Get the car on the road as soon as possible, and run the engine in a somewhat aggressive mode, not exceeding 4,500 rpm for the first few hundred miles.

    Drive safely please; we’re not asking you to drive fast or aggressively. Just keep your engine under load more than normal. Drive it in a very inefficient manner. Keep the engine with load against it, and bring the rpm up and back down to seat the rings much better and faster. This allows the rings to expand in a perfect circle and with greater pressure against the cylinderwalls to establish an even wear pattern.

    Besides for tuning, another reason that race engines are dynoed is to put a good number of passes on the engine under heavy load, as this will seat the rings very quickly, making the engine somewhat ready for racing. Failing to do this not only delays the break-in, but can permanently stop the engine from establishing a good wear pattern on the cylinderwalls.

    If you have opted for our dyno-tuned version of this engine then ring seating will be partially established. The dyno has a computer controlled break-in mode that we use before doing any dyno testing for power output. Should you opt for the dyno tuning package, it does not mean that your engine is ready for synthetic racing oil. Your engine will continue to seat the rings in to an even higher degree after 300-500 miles of driving.

    VERY IMPORTANT NOTICE

    This engine doesnotcome with oil in it. The oil that was used during the test run or dyno tuning will be drained as this is required by the shipping companies. We also prefer draining the oil as this gives us a chance to examine it for of metal particles. We use aSystem Onereusable filter on the engine during test running or dyno tuning. The filter is removed and is also closely examined for metal particles or debris. To prevent oil from dripping onto the shipping pallet, we re-install a new medium length regular spin-on oil filter.

    You must prime this oil filter. Priming is not done when changing oil on a well broken-in warm engine that has been running moments before changing the oil. Your new engine that has been sitting around for weeks, if not months, MUST be primed.

    You may replace the oil filter that comes on the engine with a brand that you prefer, but do opt for the medium lengthversion, as this will help maintain oil pressure and volume much better than the short version.

    If your engine has our Champ stock appearance pan on it, fill with approx 5-6 qts.

    If you have the extended capacity Champ pan with kick outs then you will use approx. 7.5-8qts of oil. Just remember to fill/prime the oil filter with oil before starting the engine.

    Carburetion,timing, spark plugrecommendation.

    You must be sure that your air to fuel ratio is correct.We strongly recommend purchasing a fuel to air ratio monitor.

    If your carb is running too lean, detonation is at your door.

    If it is excessively rich, cylinder wash-down from excessive fuel will destroy your bore finish, pistons, and rings quickly.

    A tad on the rich side is not a problem, and can help resist detonation; a tad on the lean side will generate the most power and increase fuel mileage.

    The optimal air to fuel ratio is approx. 13.5:1 Set total timing at 32-34. Total timing refers to the reading at 3500-4000 rpm. Do not worry about initial timing, as it will be determined by the total timing. The closer to the low side of the total timing, the safer your engine will be.

    Never use the vac. advance on any of our engines. It will not function as it was intended due to erratic low air speed at idle and mid range rpm. You will not have a problem with how the engine runs without it.

    Be sure to have a high amperage battery and high quality starter. The battery must be 850 cca or more. Use heavy gauge battery cables. If you have a hard cranking issue, purchase an in-car timing controller. This will allow you to control your timing for optimal performance and ease of starting.

    Should you ever hear valve clatter or pinging at any time, reduce, (retard) the timing just enough to eliminate it. Timing that is set just below valve clatter will allow the engine to run at its strongest, and if you pull an additional degree or two out, it will be less likely to detonate. You will notice that the engine accelerates, not faster, but smoother, with less of a short winded tight feel to it.

    If you set the timing too low, the engine will run poorly and not idle properly, and may also run hot.

    Factors that determine the need for reduced timing:

    ·very high outside temp

    ·heavy weight cars or trucks

    ·taller than normal gearing

    ·lower octane fuels, such as 91 vs 93


    Neverrun regular gas, no matter how much you have reduced the timing. It won\'t be enough! You may have had an old car in the past that pinged and clattered under load for years, and didn\'t seem to hurt it due to the very low compression. In an emergency you could certainly run regular fuel temporarily, but you must not create much load on the engine. It is under heavy load, hard acceleration that detonation takes place.

    Let any engine with compression numbers above 10:1 clatter and ping for very long, and you will lose the engine due to detonation, and in some cases this can happen very quickly.

    Spark Plugs:We recommend theAutolitebrand, part number Autolite3923. Most of our engines include the correct spark plugs. We also offer a premium NGK plug that is highly suitable for this engine. Racing grade plugs are fine as they have a few features that are desirable for certain types of driving. Keep the temp in the low to middle range. Use a plug that\'s too hot, and you are once again close to detonation/pre-ignition; use a plug that\'s too cold and they will foul constantly, run poorly when cruising at low speed, and be difficult to start.

    Some of our engines come with spark plugs in them, depending on the package you purchase. You may also use NGK part # NGK 4544, a plug that is one step lower in heat range than the Autolite plug.

    You would be amazed at how much better an engine will run with the correct spark plugs installed, but brand name has little do with this. It\'s more to do with heat range than any other factor. Factors such as outside temp, altitude, compression ratio, and the type of driving you do determine the temp range to run. You can run the coldest plug you can get by with as a rule of thumb.

    A very slight loss of power is also an issue with plugs that are too cold, as well as possible difficulty in starting. However, you can have much more serious issues by running plugs with high temp ranges.

    Keep the engine coolant temp as low as possible, but it is not a problem if it runs as high as 210 on very hot days, as long as it\'s consistent, and not climbing.

    Neveruse pure antifreeze. 50/50 mixture or even slightly less antifreeze will cool the engine better than a rich mixture of antifreeze. Get the temp down if possible, but don\'t worry if you can\'t get it below 210 on a hot summer day. The cooler you keep the engine, the lower the risk of detonation. Set engine idle at approx. 900-950, and never too far below this.

    If your carburetor is not functioning correctly it can ruin your engine. If your carburetor size is more than one step in either direction from the recommended size, it can cause an imbalance in the fuel to air ratio, and be nearly impossible to tune.

    Proper jetting is also a must. Never let the engine idle for excessively long periods during the break-in period.

    Do not overfill with engine oil. Slightly less than normal is better than too much, in most cases.

    When setting the carb choke, we recommend setting it on the mild/lean side. It is best for the choke to open up to its full straight up position as quickly as possible. Keep backing it off until cold starting becomes difficult.

    If the choke is set up on the aggressive side, it will create an over-rich condition upon every cold start-up and warm-up. This over-rich condition is very damaging to an engine.

    If you feel you can get by without a choke, then by all means do without it! The modern day carbs actually do well with very little or no choke. With a few pumps of the throttle and a bit of feathering the throttle will have you off and going smoothly, in most cases with very little or no choking at all.

    Valve trainmaintenance.

    Should you ever hear a change in sound on a solid roller setup, it is imperative that you address it immediately. If one or more of the rockers becomes loose, it could indicate something serious. If it’s a rocker that has loosened up on its own, and is left this way, it could be destructive in time.

    Only allow a true hard core hotrodderadjust the valve train, especially a solid roller setup. It will take about an hour to completely go over every rocker, and it is well worth doing after a season or less of running. Every year, we advise removing the intake and inspecting the complete roller lifter on any solid roller setup, as well as thepushrodends, rocker seats and valve tips. Also check for broken outer or inner springs.

    Hydraulic roller setups are virtually maintenance free and very long lived compared to a solid roller setup.

    Our recommendations will change from time to time.We never stop trying to build a better engine, and we learn from our own experiences and response from our customers. We know there’s always room for improvement. Research and development is on-going with us, as it would be with any successful business. We advise checking out the recommendation section of our engine ads on a regular basis.

    Why have we given such detailed information on our warranty and maintenance suggestions? Some customers bought our engines and did not fully understand our warranty and the maintenance needs of the engines.

    Not knowing is understandable, but failing to educate yourself on the do\'s anddon\'tsis asking for problems. We suggest joining a few good car forums, as they have a wealth of great information.

    However, beware of individuals on forums who think they know it all, and really know very little. Do your research using several sources, and be sure to read between the lines.

    Skip White

    Your engine booklet will include the balance sheet and other information on this engine such as, cam card, and your invoice will show your personal selection of the options offered. Misty Moore is in charge of the production of this booklet. We usually mail this out prior to shipping the engine. Should you fail to receive this, feel free to contactMisty at [phone removed by ].

    THIS ENGINE USES THE BEST PARTS. WE’VE REVIEWED WHAT THE COMPETITION IS OFFERING, AND WE’RE 100% CONVINCED WE ARE OFFERING A FAR BETTER VALUE.

    Many have asked why we’re able to sell such an engine for such a great price. It’s because we’re also a major distribution center for all of the parts used in this engine, as well as a full scale machine shop. Our purchase price for the parts used in this and all of our engines are at master warehouse distributor (WD) pricing. Few machine shops ever get to master-wd pricing. We also believe in keeping our profit levels low enough to allow the working man a chance to build his car the way it should be built.

    A final note.

    Our user id is:skipwhite, and our store name is whiteperformance1. You may have noticed other sellers using a similar name offering similar products. These other sellers have capitalized on our name as we see it, and many customers searching for us will inadvertently find them, thinking we are one in the same company. There is only one \"Skip White\" We are the original premier seller under this name since approximately 2002. We have no other names, nor are we associated with any other company regardless of the similarity in the name or location. Our official company name is Skip White Performance.

    Pictured below is our Centroid cnc block machine at the 2012 Sema show. The machine stands nearly 10 feet tall and weighs approx. 6,000 lbs. A huge difference of what you see at most machine shops. We have been using this machine on all of our blocks since 2012



    Note from Skip White, President.
    We have been very selective on the parts used in our New Stage 8.0 572 cid engine. Many sellers will offer lower cost engines, which we have found to be substandard. Many sellers are willing to take the risk to maximize profits and/or offer an engine at a very appealing price to maximize sales volume. They are not concerned with the cost of a failed engine to their customers. We know where to draw the line on low cost products while keeping in mind that the product must be affordable for those with limited funds.
    High end forged pistons became a necessity due to the fact most people will tune their engines to the edge of detonation for maximum performance or simply out of lack of knowledge on how to tune the engine. Detonation is so destructive to the engine that we felt the extra money spent on the higher grade SRS forged pistons was a must. The protection gained is proven by the fact we hardly ever have a customer needing a piston replacement due to failure resulting from detonation.
    Our next upgrade to the rotating assembly was the Scat 4340 crank. It costs slightly more than Eagle, but is a far superior product. The flexplate was another item we upgraded for very little additional money. It amazes me that other sellers will offer the OE style thin grey flexplates with single welded ring gears, when the Heavy duty version is only approx. $18.00 more. Our timing components are also a huge upgrade from the lower cost version offered by Cloyes.
    I have reviewed other similar 572 engines on the market, and find some to be overpriced considering the type of build they offer. Regardless of their price, we feel we build a far better engine for the money. The machine work or lack thereof on many of the blocks used by our competitors may also pose a problem.
    Most of the vendors of similar 572 engines on the market fail to say exactly what is used in their engines. You may notice them mention the hard parts, but they never mention anything about items like oil pumps, gaskets, timing chain model, pistons, hardware, etc. other than brand. Many of the items used in the lower cost engines are the low end variety. The smaller items used in our engines are generally far from the lowest cost version on the market. This is why I feel it necessary to mention all of the items used in our engine, as I feel they make the difference in reliability, longevity, and performance.
    If you want to make a true comparison, then you should request a full build sheet including brand and the actual part number or description of such items.
    Do feel free to ask any questions you have about this engine. Our tech support line is [phone removed by ] or email us your questions using the contact tab associated with this ad.

    This video is of our company race car owned and operated by Skip White. The engine in the car at the time this video was made is our Stage Three SBC 400 engine. The Stage 8.0 572 cid engine would have made a huge difference in acceleration.

    It is very important that you save your engine crate in the event that you need to return the engine to us for any reason. When the engine arrives, be sure to check the crate for any damage. If you notice any damage to the crate, then make note of this on the sign off sheet that the driver will ask you to sign, and take pictures while the driver is present if possible. This will assist us in making a claim for damages. We have made this engine crate nearly indestructible, but some freight companies have still managed to damage our engines. Please inspect the crate when it arrives, and do take pictures if you notice any damage.

    Email us for shipping cost for overseas delivery. We have excellent sources for low cost shipping anywhere in the world.

    We have now included a flat rate shipping fee on this engine within the 48 continental states.This rate only applies to delivery to a business with the capability to unload the engine without the use of a lift gate. You must have a dock or fork lift. We can have the engine delivered to a residence with lift gate service but at an additional cost.

    Your engine will be in a crate on a pallet, and you will receive a roll around engine cradle, at no additional cost. The value of the engine cradle is approx. $49.00. Your engine will also be fully insured. You are welcome to pick up your engine in person, and eliminate the shipping cost. Should you decide to come in, you are welcome to take a tour of our facility.

    WE OFFER GREATDISCOUNTS ON SHIPPING. YOU PAY THE FULL SHIPPING FEEON THE HIGHEST SHIPPING COST OF YOUR GROUP OF ITEMS, ANDHALF PRICESHIPPING ON ALL ADDITIONAL ITEMS(EXCEPT ENGINES, ASSEMBLIES, HEADS, AND CRANKSHAFTS).FEW OFFER DISCOUNTS ON SHIPPING SUCH AS THIS.

    EMAIL US USING THE ASK SELLER A QUESTION TAB,IF YOU WOULD LIKE US TO CALCULATE YOUR SHIPPING COST ON MULTIPLE ITEM ORDERS. IF YOU ARE UNABLE TO EMAIL US GIVE US A CALL AT[phone removed by ]FROM8AM-6PM EASTERN TIME MON-FRI AND 11AM-3PM ON SAT.WE WILL ANSWER YOUR EMAILWITHIN THE SAME DAY IN MOST CASES,SO KEEP SHOPPING AND PAY HALF PRICE SHIPPING ON ALL ADDITIONAL ITEMS. PLEASE CALCULATE YOUR SHIPPINGCORRECTLY, TO AVOID DELAYS IN SHIPPING YOUR ITEMS.

    IF YOU ARE HAVING DIFFICULTY PAYING WITH PAYPAL, FEEL FREE TO GIVE US A CALLAT[phone removed by ].CUSTOMER SERVICE AND SALESHOURS OF OPERATION ARE8AM-8PMMon-Friand10AM-3PM SAT.

    FOR TECH SUPPORT, PLEASE USE THE,\"ASK SELLER A QUESTION TAB\". IT\'S LOCATED AT THE TOP RIGHT HAND SIDE OF THIS PAGE. YOU MAY ALSO CALL FOR TECH SUPPORT IF YOU’RE UNABLE TO EXPLAIN WHAT YOU NEED IN AN EMAIL. TECH SUPPORT IS USUALLY NOT AVAILABLE TILL AROUND 10-6 MON-FRI.


    Paywith your credit card through PayPal, or call us at [phone removed by ] OR[phone removed by ].




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