This cam does generate the most power but will trade off bottom end throttle response and low speed cruising in the low rpm range. You would not be able to run an overdrive trans with this cam choice unless the rpm range is at approx. 2300 rpm. Valve train life is reduced to a slight degree with this cam. This would only be a concern for those wanting to drive their vehicles on long trips or with frequent use. This cam choice puts your setup into the Pro-Street league.
Drivability is fair at best with this cam. The exception to this would be those with very light cars, weighing below 3000 lbs. I have personally driven a car weighing around 3300 lbs with this engine and I found it performed well with a 5-speed manual transmission. It would cruise at approx. 2250 rpm in 4th gear. When shifted to 5th (overdrive), the engine seemed to require approx. 2350 or more at 55-60 mph.
Cam choice #2
PART # 180345-10
- VALVE LIFT WITH 1.5 ROCKERS : INT .565 / EXT .580
- DURATION IN DEGREES : ADVERTISED - INT .300 / EXT .306
- DURATION @0.050" : INT .245 / EXT .253
- LOBE SEPARATION ANGLE : 110º
Cam choice 2 is the perfect, happy medium for those wanting decent drivability in medium weight cars. This cam will still have an aggressive sound at idle. You would require a stall converter in the 2800-3000 range, and staying closer to the high side of this range would be better. Final gearing would need to be at 330 or higher. If your car weighs 3600 lbs or more, then the final gearing should be around 355 or better. Hp numbers will drop with this cam, 30-35 at the most.
Combine this cam choice with the dual plane intake option, and hp numbers will fall approx another 10-15. Do not opt for the single plane intake if your car is in the medium to heavy weight range. They do not operate as well as the dual plane intake on the bottom end. If your car is very light, below 3100 lbs, then the single plane intake is suitable. This is our best selling cam choice with our 434 engine, but you must still set the car up with proper gearing and converter stall.Cam choice #3
PART#180265-10
- VALVE LIFT WITH 1.5 ROCKERS : INT .530 / EXT .545
- DURATION IN DEGREES : ADVERTISED - INT .286 / EXT .294
- DURATION @0.050" : INT .233 / EXT .241
- LOBE SEPARATION ANGLE : 110
This cam choice (3) is the perfect all around setup for those wanting a very good bottom and mid range response while still generating excellent power at the top. Horsepower rating would drop to approx 545 when coupled with 1.5 rockers and the dual plane intake.
Choosing the single plane intake with this cam choice would be totally impractical. This cam will make its peak power at approx 5600 rpm. Stall converter rating should be at least 2500-2800. If your car is in the heavy weight range, and you want much better streetability, then this is the correct cam choice. You still want to keep the final gear ratio at approx 320 or higher, but keeping the gear ratio on the tall side is more acceptable with this cam compared to the other choices.
You may choose 1.5 or 1.6 rockers with this cam, but we recommend the 1.5 rockers for even better low end response. You can also expect a much longer valve train life with this cam compared to the larger cams listed above, especially with the 1.5 ratio rocker choice. Carb size when using this cam will drop to the SS-850. You'll notice slightly better mileage and better throttle response with this carb compared to the Q-950. If your vehicle is very heavy, over 4000 lbs or a full size sport truck, then we recommend our cam choice #4.
Note: The three cams mentioned above should not be run in a vehicle with an overdrive automatic trans. You could operate an overdrive trans with the cam choice 3 but only if the final drive were at approx 355 or better. Even then, low rpm cruising in the 1700-1900 rpm range would not be possible. If low rpm operation and extended distance driving is desired, then our cam choice #4 would be suitable. See details below on cam choice #4.
Cam choice # 4
PART # 180245-10
- VALVE LIFT WITH 1.5 ROCKERS : INT .500 / EXT .510
- DURATION IN DEGREES : ADVERTISED - INT .278 / EXT .284
- DURATION @0.050" : INT .225 / EXT .231
- LOBE SEPARATION ANGLE : 110º
Cam choice #4 would be an excellent choice for those with a very heavy car or sport truck. This cam would also be the best choice for those running a 700R4 trans. This cam is an excellent choice for low speed cruising, a heavy car, running AC, and the ability to cruise at low rpm ranges with ease.
Near off idle power. Near stock stall converter, but you would still want a 2200-2500 stall for best results. Gearing could be considerably tall, allowing for much better mileage. Torque in the low rpm range would be off the charts high. You would lose a bit more off the top, but the reward down low would be very impressive.
This cam will provide explosive off the line acceleration. Carb size when using this cam will drop to the SS-830. You'll notice slightly better mileage and throttle response compared to the others mentioned above.Valve train wear would be near non existent with this cam, coupled with 1.5 rockers.
The information listed above on cam selection is not etched in stone.You could step outside these limitations towards the more aggressive side, but the driving experience will usually not be as exciting as if you stayed on the conservative side. The larger cams would possibly cross the finish line a bit sooner compared to the smaller choices, but the smaller cams will have a better feel in a narrower power band.
We're all hungry for as much horsepower as we can get, but to build an engine of a given size to higher limits of horsepower will always require a trade off. The 421/427 engine offers the best of both worlds when it comes to bottom and top end power, but the bigger cams are more demanding of gearing, stall, are sensitive to weight, and suffer on drivability.
THE CAMS LISTED WILL COVER MOST NEEDS FOR ANY STREET ROD OR SPORT TRUCK.
We have had a few customers wanting to run our Stage 5.5 434 engine in a heavy duty work truck such as a 3/4 ton or 1 ton dually used for trailer towing. None of the four cams listed above would be suitable for this. We do have cams for such applications. We recommend going with the 427 cubic inch engine build with the 4.00 stroke crank. Please continue reading.
HOWARDS TIE BAR LIFTERS
Howards Cams Street series retrofit hydraulic roller lifters are designed for street performance enthusiasts who want to upgrade to a hydraulic roller camshaft. They are manufactured to fit early or late model blocks, including blocks with tall lifter bosses. Howards Cams uses cold form technology to shape their bodies for durability. The lifters are then carbonitrided and tempered for hardness. They also feature hardened and tempered steel alloy roller wheels, heat-treated stainless steel cross bars, and high-alloy steel tie bar buttons. Howards Cams Street series retrofit hydraulic roller lifters are made in the USA and are specifically designed for street applications up to 6,500 rpm or more.
Our 434'suse only the Howards brand pushrods, which are lightweight in design, yet very strong. Made in the USA from 4130 chromoly steel. Regular hardened pushrods will most likely flex in the engine when running above normal RPM ranges, and risk bending under high RPM. These do not have the welded ball on the end. We only use the swedged one pc. design, which is a well proven design far superior to the style many others use in engines. 4130 chromoly steel is also much stronger, and will resist flexing. When a pushrod flexes in the engine, you lose lift. Don't be misled by the term "hardened," as this is nothing more than a stock style low cost push rod. They will flex in the engine or possibly bend permanently.
You have a choice of single or dual plane polish finish, with satin available if you prefer.The Hurricane intake is approx. 2.25 inches taller than a stock intake. The dual plane Crosswind is only about 1.25" taller than a stock intake. The bottom end response is not optimal when using the single plane intake. We do not recommend it for most vehicles that will be driven on the street.
Pictured below are our most popular valve covers. They are fabricated aluminum, and very high quality. You may select from any of the valve covers we have listed at no additional cost, since the valve covers are included with this STAINLESS ALLEN HEAD INTAKE BOLTS ARE USED ON ALL OUR ENGINES.
Head gaskets are Fel Pro 1014 premium race grade series.
ARP HEAD BOLTS AND WASHERS.
ARP ROCKER ARM STUDS ARE THE ONLY STUDS WE USE IN OUR ENGINES.
The timing components are the Cloyes billet upper and lower double roller timing set. Part # 9-3645X3.
We use the top of the line Cloyes timing set in all of our 434 SBC engines. The difference in quality is dramatic compared to the common true double roller setup. The chain is made in Germany, and the sprockets are hardenedbillet steel(upper and lower) and made in the USA. These sets are hand matched for selective sizing.
The cost on this setup is approx $129.00, about four times the cost of the low level budget timing set used by many other engine builders. Should you ever want to confirm that this is what is actually in your engine, you can remove the timing cover, and you will notice the upper gear has a fully array of lightening holes.
It may be overkill to use this expensive setup, but the attraction, besides being the most precise, is that it comes in three sizes. Many times a regular timing set will have too much tension in the chain. If the mains have been line bored or line honed, this can create a loose chain effect.
This top of the line timing set is offered in three different chain tension setups, allowing us to set it up perfectly every time. One more benefit is that timing accuracy is very precise and will remain that way. This timing set will likely last for the life of the engine. This is what you will find in most solid roller engines, as they have very high spring rates, and create an enormous load on the chain and gears, compared to non solid roller setups.
POLISHED ALUMINUM TIMING COVER.
We use only Felpro seals and gaskets with our timing cover.
TheM-Selectseries oil pump by Melling has several important upgrades compared to the regular Melling M-55 Series. The gears are billet steel, the body is stronger, coated with corrosion-resistant nitrite. The drive rod that is included is also from the M-Select line. We use this exact unit in our Stage 4&5 street rodengines.
Pictured above is the oil pan included with this engine. TheUSmade Champ oil pan used on this engine has an 8 qt. capacity. It has an elaborate oil control system. Features windage tray, crank scraper, .055 gauge outer shell, with reinforcing ribs. Champ oil pans are made in the USA. All QRP Series engines will come with the Champ oil pan.
We do not use the knock off oil pan gaskets on the market. Felpro premium oil pan gaskets are used on all of our engines.
We use this premium studded mini nut set for oil pan and valve cover fasteners. The nuts have a serrated face and built in washers. This is the ultimate set for securing the oil pan to the engine and is far superior to the typical bolts used by most other builders. We use this set on all our engines.
If you chose cam choice 1 or 2, then we highly recommend the exhaust evac. system. The vacuum created by the engine is somewhat insufficient when using these larger cams, heads, carb and intake to operate a pcv system at its best, but the vacuum is also very erratic.
It would be fair to say that the fuel to air ratio is somewhat erratic when using a pcv system on a street rod of this level.The evac system will pull the crankcase gases out of the engine at a very smooth and controlled rate. This allows the rings to seat in much faster and better, and can increase horse power to some degree by reducing crankcase pressure. Another benefit of the evac system is that you're not contaminating the fuel and air mixture with semi burned by-products from the engine oil and combustion process.
Another downside to using the pcv system is that the vacuum levels are somewhat insufficient at medium to high RPM to handle the blow by gases generated, especially with a new high compression engine. This lower than normal level of vacuum is a result of the size of the heads, cam, carb and intake. Couple this with the higher than normal compression ratio, and you may have problems from an excess of blow by gases building up in the crankcase.
Oil leakage from engine seals and oil forced out of orifices and around gaskets are common with engines that are unable to rid themselves of excess crankcase pressure. On a stock low compression engine, the pcv system operates much better than on a street rod or race engine.
We will let you decide what setup you want. After the engine is completely broken in, the pcv setup will usually be sufficient. However, it may not be the best choice. The break-in time may also be slower with the pcv setup.There is no up charge for the evac system.It requires a bit more work to install, but is relatively simple.
If you do choose the exhaust evac system, we have a few more recommendations. The bullet style perforated mufflers, like those made by Magnaflow and many other companies,mustbe used. In our opinion, they sound the best and, most importantly, they allow the exhaust evac system to work properly.Magnaflow is a popular brand of the true straight through mufflers, and there are several others. The sound level is controlled by the length you choose. The 12-16 inch length sounds the best to us. These mufflers have smooth perforated inner walls.They should not be confused with traditional glass packs with fluted walls, which are very restrictive and have a somewhat sloppy sound.
Traditional chambered mufflers, like Flowmaster, create a back pressure pulse that will interfere with the operation of an exhaust evac. system. Chambered mufflers have the reputation of helping bottom end throttle response, but you will have a decent amount of bottom end power with this engine. In our experience, the straight through perforated mufflers sound and perform better in every respect, and allow the proper use of an exhaust evac. system. More info. on this subject below.
BILLET ALUMINUM TIMING POINTER. VERY FEW SELLERS FINISH OFF THEIR TURN KEY ENGINES AS WE DO.
We did not offer this billet timing pointer in the past. However, we noticed that there was a birds eyeviewof the timing pointer from the driver side of the engine, so we decided to use these on all of our engines.
Our new 434engine is premium pump gas friendly, with very good street manners. NEVER run regular 87 octane in this engine, premium only. Should you ever hear any sign of pinging or clatter in the engine when accelerating, reduce timing one or two degrees. You can never totally trust the accuracy of timing components.
IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT DE-TUNING
For thosewith very heavy vehicles, such as4x4 trucks, 3/4 ton trucks,and crew cab/ex-cab trucks, plus trucks that may do light tomediumtrailer towing, I strongly recommend the de-tuned version of this engine. We can build this engine with a reduced compression ratio. We would special order a cam at no additional cost if the truck is used for towing. Even if it not used for towing but is very heavy (5000 lbs or more), then cam choice #4 would be appropriate.
We strongly recommend the dual plane Crosswind intake. You should not choose a single plane intake for any medium/heavy weight vehicle that is driven on the street. Single plane intakes do produce more top end horsepower than the dual plane versions, but they also move the torque band up higher in the rpm range. The hp difference is approx. 10-20, but this is only noticeable in top end racing. The optional dual plane intake that we offer has very large runners and will perform much better in the lower and middle rpm range. The dual plane Crosswind intake functions exactly as an Edlebrock RPM Airgap.
This engine comes with a three key way timing gear, and we do set it up in the middle, (straight up) position. You may experiment with this to optimize your torque curve. Ignition timing should be run at 30 rather than the more aggressive 33 degrees total in heavy vehicles. These changes would help move the torque band down lower in the rpm range. The hp numbers would fall to approx. 500 but there is no doubt that the engine would have a very strong pull up until around 5,200 rpm.
Thissetup in a heavy pickup truck would be very durable, and you may even be able torun a mid-grade fuel if you have chosen the reduced compression version of this engine, butdo this with caution, and listen for detonation (ping and clatter). The cost for any of these options will remain the same.
SFI APPROVED FLEX PLATE,Black Powder coat or zinc dichromate from Scat. This flexplate will resist cracking, warpage, leading to imbalance in the engine.One good telltalein identifying acheap flex plate is the lack of welding on eachside where the plate mates to the ring gear.Oursarewelded on both sides,and is approx. 35 thousandths thicker than an OEM plate. Never would we use the thinner plate on anassembly such as this.It is also zinc dichromate coated. We do offer this engine with a manual flywheel.
Our machinists each have many years of experience in building racing engines. This very critical work is done to exacting specs and with great care. Of course, some vendors do not have machinists with the experience or the proper equipment that we are fortunate to have. We build many engines that cost upwards of $50,000.00.
WARRANTY INFORMATION
This engine has aTwoYear Warranty with unlimited mileage.
- Should a major problem arise with this engine within the first year of use, the warranty covers all parts and labor and we will pay for shipping the engine both ways.
- Keep the crate your engine came in to ensure a safe return to our workshop.
- Wedo notcover the removal or re-installation of the engine at any time during the warranty period.
- Our engines must be used with a rev limiter. Should warranty issues arise, proof of the rev limiter use will be required.
- Should a problem occur in the first year of the warranty that we determine can be repaired by you or a qualified repair shop,upon our written approval,we will pay for the repair based on our in-house hourly rates for labor and our estimate of a reasonable amount of time to make the repair with the engineon a stand as you received it.To be specific, due to the difficulty of accessing certain engine parts in some vehicles, we arenotresponsible for the additional time and labor costs you may incur in removing and replacing such parts.
- In the second year, the warranty will cover all parts minus any labor to remove and install needed parts. The cost of shipping the engine to us is not covered in the second year of warranty.
- Tuning or maintenance are not covered under the warranty. Tuning includes jetting or adjusting the carb, ignition timing, or readjusting the rockers. Tuning would also include changing out plugs to optimize temp range for your needs. Setting ignition timing is also considered tuning. You must check the timing on this engine before it is driven.
- If you are not satisfied with the cam, intake or carb you have chosen, we will exchange any of these items. You will pay for shipping and any required labor.
- There is no additional charge for cam and intake swaps within the first 60 days of purchase.
- If a carb is returned as a swap for an upgraded carb, you will receive full credit for the cost of the original carb towards the cost of the upgraded carb. If a carb is returned for credit or as a swap for a carb of equal value, a restocking fee will be charged or deducted from the cost of the returned carb.
- Damage due to detonation or extreme abuse will not be covered by the warranty.Detonation damage is evident upon removal of the cyl. heads.
Always feel free to give us a call if you have a question about tuning.
You can enjoy your engine with occasional spirited driving, as it is well designed for it, but we will not cover damage caused by racing or improper tuning. A rev limiter and fuel to air ratio monitoring device must be used on this engine. The rev limiter should be set to cut off at its peak horsepower or less if you choose, and this should allow many years of service without a problem.
The carb should be tuned to allow the correct fuel to air ratio. This ratio can vary depending on many factors such as altitude, vehicle weight, gearing, type of driving, etc. These values should be in the recommended safe zone.
Continue reading for more detailed information on timing and carburetion. You must follow the oil recommendations listed below.
Special note.
For engines equipped withsolidroller cams, the warranty on the valve train components is for 30 days. You may never have a problem with any of the components, but excessive street driving at cruising speed can adversely affect these components.
Solid roller setups on bbc engines should not be driven for excessively long distances or for long periods of time on the street. A weekend of racing at the drag strip would likely have less of an effect on the valve train components than a 100 mile easy drive.
If you do think you will be driving significant numbers of miles, we strongly recommend going with our hydraulic roller cam package. The warranty on the hydraulic roller cam and valve train components is the same as the rest of the engine. See our other listings for info on all of our engines.
Tuning, maintenance, and oil recommendations.
This engine must be maintained with oil specifically designed for high performance engines. The life of the engine can be greatly extended if you run a race grade engine oil such a Valvoline VR1 or the many other race grade engine oils on the market. Most are available in synthetic grade for those who prefer it. However, we recommend running non synthetic racing oil for at least 1000 miles to ensure the rings have seated completely.
Rather than using mileage as an indicator of ring sealing, it’s better to use oil consumption as a guide.We recommendValvoline VR1Racing oil in the silver bottle. This brand of oil has an exceptional reputation, and is used by many high performance engine builders, racers, and many street rod owners. This oil is totally suitable for street use. You don't have to run the off road series racing oil. The street/strip series are suitable.
The 10w-30 weight is recommended for year round use on SBC engines, and BBC engines may run the 20w-50 grade during hot weather, but not during temps below 40 degrees. BBC engines are known for fluctuations in oil pressure moreso than the SBC engines, so the heavier weight oil may stabilize oil pressure readings. However, the 20w-50 should not be used during winter weather.
Oil pressure of 50-60 lbs in the upper rpm range on a fully warmed up engine is nothing to worry about. You may also notice that oil pressure drops at idle to approx 25-30 lbs when the engine is fully warmed up during very hot weather. This is somewhat common and no cause for alarm.
If your engine has a Dart block, then it has priority main oiling. This block routes the oil in a very different pathway compared to a GM block. The mains and rod bearings as well as the crankshaft are well protected with an ample supply of oil even when the oil pressure numbers are lower than you think they should be.
You may run a 20w-50 grade oil if your engine is a big block if you feel it will help the oil pressure, and it sometimes does. Small block engines may even make use of the heavier weight oil, but only in the warmest of weather. We have implemented many safeguards in the build of our engines to stabilize the oil pressure.
Racing oil must be changed more often than conventional oil. Every 2000 miles or less would be optimal.
There are many special additives in race grade oils that are not in conventional oil. These additives are very valuable for high performance engines.Neveradd anything to racing oil. This oil has exactly what is needed to protect a high performance engine. Some of these oils will state that they are low or possibly non-detergent, and that is a desirable trait of racing oil.
The anti foaming agents in race grade oils are much better than what you would find in conventional motor oil.Race grade oils have higher than normal amounts of the zinc compounds in them, and there are many components in the engine that can make great use of these additives.
If you are running a mechanical fuel pump on our engine, you absolutely must follow the oil guidelines to the letter.
We recommend running an electric fuel pump on this engine due to the higher than normal eccentric cam lobe failure rate experienced with engines running a mechanical fuel pump.
The high volume mechanical fuel pumps put an additional strain on the eccentric fuel pump lobe on the cam, and modern roller cam technology may not be addressing the eccentric cam lobe design like it once did years ago, since very few people are running mechanical fuel pumps anymore and the roller cams and lifters do not require these special treatments.
Modern oils further the problem due to the absence of high levels of the zinc compounds they once had. These factors can spell doom for the eccentric cam lobe on the cam in these engines.
If you insist on running a mechanical fuel pump, then using arace grade oil becomes essential. To further protect the cam, we offer a very special fuel pump rod made from an ultralight material.It’s made from a proprietary blended, carbon reinforced, bearing-grade polymer.This fuel pump rod only weighs 25 grams, and is very strong yet gentle on the eccentric cam lobe.
Unlike the common light weight hollow rod on the market, this rod is one third the weight, and a bit more costly. By reducing the reciprocating mass of the fuel pump rod, the load on the eccentric cam lobe is greatly reduced. We offer this rod in our other listings.
As for oil filters, we recommend ACDelco, selected K&N, Moroso, or any of the other high quality oil filters on the market.
Be aware that some K&N filters have a very low micron rating, and we don't recommend them.All oil filters have a micron particle rating. If you want to run a low micron rated oil filter during the break-in period, that would be acceptable. Do not run the engine at high rpm during this break-in period with a low micron oil filter. The filtration on these oil filters is high, but the restriction is also very high and may reduce oil flow (volume) when running at wide open throttle or when the engine is cold.
We have seen some filters rated up to 61 micron size, and these would be great to run at the track, but we find its micron rating on the high side and may not provide as much protection as a filter with a lower micron rating.
Filters in the micron range of 20-25 offer the best overall protection and do not interfere with oil flow/volume to any great extent. AC Delco and K&N filters have a very strong case and this is very desirable if you have purchased one of our engines with a Dart block. The Dart block has a priority main oiling system, and pressure in the oil filter can be very high when the engine is cold. You must always allow the engine to warm up completely before any hard acceleration.
In our Dart block, the Wiseco forged pistons that we use arenot madefrom the low expansion 4032 alloy material. Ours are all made from 2618 Aircraft alloy. This type of alloy has a greater amount of expansion in the bore until fully warmed up, but not as much as some of the all out race pistons. Nonetheless, they do have more clearance until warmed up. Therefore, let the engine warm up before accelerating all out. You can start up and go a mild driving pace with it cold for 10 min. or longer.
You must use a rev-limiter on this engine. Should you have a warranty issue, proof will be required. A rev-limiter will allow you the freedom to drive without having to monitor the tach. Every car from the factory has this feature. Set the limiter to the peak hp rating of this engine or less for added protection.
You must run a crankcase ventilation system to pull gases from the crankcase, and we do supply this with the engine. You will have two choices. Usually thepcvsystem will work, but due to the erratic engine air speed, it may not work so well.
If you decided on cam choice two or three with this engine and have chosen our dual plane intake, the common pcv system will be included with this engine, and should do well with keeping crankcase pressures normal.
However, we believe that the best system is an exhaust evac system that is fed into the collector of your headers. You cannot use the exhaust evac system if you have chambered mufflers such as Flow Masters or any other brand of chambered muffler.
You may run the exhaust evac system if you have straight through mufflers such as the ones made by Magnaflow, Corsa, Borla, and Bullet, etc. These mufflers have perforated walls and flow straight through. Regular chambered mufflers will interfere with the operation of an exhaust evac system. This system will gently pull gases from the crankcase at all times at a smooth consistent flow. Your engine rings will usually seat faster.
One other benefit of using an exhaust evac system is the reduction in oil leaks. Excessive crankcase pressure is the cause of many oil leaks.You can choose the type of vent system you want with this engine at no additional charge.
The exhaust evac system has one serious drawback. The valves that connect into the headers have a somewhat short life, and when they fail, they could cause crankcase pressures to rise greatly. They must be checked regularly.
Educate yourself on these systems before using them. You will find plenty of great information on the internet about them. They are great systems but require frequent maintenance and replacement of the valves.
These valves are not expensive, and testing to see that they are working is very simple. Replacing them is also very easy. High mileage use or daily driving is impractical with this system, and the standard pcv system would be more suitable.
Engine break in:As soon as your engine is installed,check and reset the timing if needed.Get the car on the road as soon as possible, and run the engine in a somewhat aggressive mode, not exceeding 4,500 rpm for the first few hundred miles.
Drive safely please; we’re not asking you to drive fast or aggressively. Just keep your engine under load more than normal. Drive it in a very inefficient manner. Keep the engine with load against it, and bring the rpm up and back down to seat the rings much better and faster. This allows the rings to expand in a perfect circle and with greater pressure against the cylinderwalls to establish an even wear pattern.
Besides for tuning, another reason that race engines are dynoed is to put a good number of passes on the engine under heavy load, as this will seat the rings very quickly, making the engine somewhat ready for racing. Failing to do this not only delays the break-in, but can permanently stop the engine from establishing a good wear pattern on the cylinderwalls.
If you have opted for our dyno-tuned version of this engine then ring seating will be partially established. The dyno has a computer controlled break-in mode that we use before doing any dyno testing for power output. Should you opt for the dyno tuning package, it does not mean that your engine is ready for synthetic racing oil. Your engine will continue to seat the rings in to an even higher degree after 300-500 miles of driving.
VERY IMPORTANT NOTICE.
This engine doesnotcome with oil in it. The oil that was used during the test run or dyno tuning will be drained as this is required by the shipping companies. We also prefer draining the oil as this gives us a chance to examine it for of metal particles. We use aSystem Onereusable filter on the engine during test running or dyno tuning. The filter is removed and is also closely examined for metal particles or debris. To prevent oil from dripping onto the shipping pallet, we re-install a new medium length regular spin-on oil filter.
You must prime this oil filter. Priming is not done when changing oil on a well broken-in warm engine that has been running moments before changing the oil. Your new engine that has been sitting around for weeks, if not months, MUST be primed.
You may replace the oil filter that comes on the engine with a brand that you prefer, but do opt for the medium lengthversion, as this will help maintain oil pressure and volume much better than the short version.
If your engine has our Champ stock appearance pan on it, fill with approx 5-6 qts.
If you have the extended capacity Champ pan with kick outs then you will use approx. 7.5-8qts of oil. Just remember to fill/prime the oil filter with oil before starting the engine.
Carburetion,timing, spark plugrecommendation.
You must be sure that your air to fuel ratio is correct.We strongly recommend purchasing a fuel to air ratio monitor.
If your carb is running too lean, detonation is at your door.
If it is excessively rich, cylinder wash-down from excessive fuel will destroy your bore finish, pistons, and rings quickly.
A tad on the rich side is not a problem, and can help resist detonation; a tad on the lean side will generate the most power and increase fuel mileage.
The optimal air to fuel ratio is approx. 13.5:1 Set total timing at 32-34. Total timing refers to the reading at 3500-4000 rpm. Do not worry about initial timing, as it will be determined by the total timing. The closer to the low side of the total timing, the safer your engine will be.
Never use the vac. advance on any of our engines. It will not function as it was intended due to erratic low air speed at idle and mid range rpm. You will not have a problem with how the engine runs without it.
Be sure to have a high amperage battery and high quality starter. The battery must be 850 cca or more. Use heavy gauge battery cables. If you have a hard cranking issue, purchase an in-car timing controller. This will allow you to control your timing for optimal performance and ease of starting.
Should you ever hear valve clatter or pinging at any time, reduce, (retard) the timing just enough to eliminate it. Timing that is set just below valve clatter will allow the engine to run at its strongest, and if you pull an additional degree or two out, it will be less likely to detonate. You will notice that the engine accelerates, not faster, but smoother, with less of a short winded tight feel to it.
If you set the timing too low, the engine will run poorly and not idle properly, and may also run hot.
Factors that determine the need for reduced timing:
·below peak power
·very high outside temp
·heavy weight cars or trucks
·taller than normal gearing
·lower octane fuels, such as 91 vs 93
Neverrun regular gas, no matter how much you have reduced the timing. It won't be enough! You may have had an old car in the past that pinged and clattered under load for years, and didn't seem to hurt it due to the very low compression.
Let any engine with compression numbers above 10:1 clatter and ping for very long, and you will lose the engine due to detonation, and in some cases this can happen very quickly.
Spark Plugs:We recommend theAutolitebrand, part number Autolite3923. Most of our engines include the correct spark plugs. We also offer a premium NGK plug that is highly suitable for this engine. Racing grade plugs are fine as they have a few features that are desirable for certain types of driving. Keep the temp in the low to middle range. Use a plug that's too hot, and you are once again close to detonation/pre-ignition; use a plug that's too cold and they will foul constantly, run poorly when cruising at low speed, and be difficult to start.
Some of our engines come with spark plugs in them, depending on the package you purchase. You may also use NGK part # NGK 4544, a plug that is one step lower in heat range than the Autolite plug.
You would be amazed at how much better an engine will run with the correct spark plugs installed, but brand name has little do with this. It's more to do with heat range than any other factor. Factors such as outside temp, altitude, compression ratio, and the type of driving you do determine the temp range to run. You can run the coldest plug you can get by with.
A very slight loss of power is also an issue with plugs that are too cold, as well as possible difficulty in starting. However, you can have much more serious issues by running plugs with high temp ranges.
Keep the engine coolant temp as low as possible, but it is not a problem if it runs as high as 210 on very hot days, as long as it's consistent, and not climbing.
Neveruse pure antifreeze. 50/50 mixture or even slightly less antifreeze will cool the engine better than a rich mixture of antifreeze. Get the temp down if possible, but don't worry if you can't get it below 210 on a hot summer day. The cooler you keep the engine, the lower the risk of detonation. Set engine idle at approx. 900-950, and never too far below this.
If your carburetor is not functioning correctly it can ruin your engine. If your carburetor size is more than one step in either direction from the recommended size, it can cause an imbalance in the fuel to air ratio, and be nearly impossible to tune.
Proper jetting is also a must. Never let the engine idle for excessively long periods during the break-in period.
Do not overfill with engine oil. Slightly less than normal is better than too much, in most cases.
When setting the carb choke, we recommend setting it on the mild/lean side. It is best for the choke to open up to its full straight up position as quickly as possible. Keep backing it off until cold starting becomes difficult.
If the choke is set up on the aggressive side, it will create an over-rich condition upon every cold start-up and warm-up. This over-rich condition is very damaging to an engine.
If you feel you can get by without a choke, then by all means do without it! The modern day carbs actually do well with very little or no choke. With a few pumps of the throttle and a bit of feathering, the throttle will have you off and going smoothly, in most cases with very little or no choking at all.
Valve trainmaintenance.
Should you ever hear a change in sound on a solid roller setup, it is imperative that you address it immediately. If one or more of the rockers becomes loose, it could indicate something serious. If it’s a rocker that has loosened up on its own, and is left this way, it could be destructive in time.
Only allow a true hard core hotrodderadjust the valve train, especially a solid roller setup. It will take about an hour to completely go over every rocker, and it is well worth doing after a season or less of running. Every year, we advise removing the intake and inspecting the complete roller lifter on any solid roller setup, as well as thepushrodends, rocker seats and valve tips. Also check for broken outer or inner springs.
Hydraulic roller setups are virtually maintenance and very long lived compared to a solid roller setup.
Our recommendations will change from time to time.We never stop trying to build a better engine, and we learn from our own experiences and from response from our customers. We know there’s always room for improvement. We’re always working on research and development, as does any successful business. We advise checking out the recommendation section of our engine ads on a regular basis.
Why have we given such detailed information on our warranty and maintenance suggestions? Some customers bought our engines and did not fully understand our warranty and the maintenance needs of the engines.
Not knowing is understandable, but failing to educate yourself on the do's anddon'tsis asking for problems. We suggest joining a few good car forums, as they have a wealth of great information.
However, beware of individuals on forums who think they know it all, and really know very little. Do your research using several sources, and be sure to read between the lines.
Your engine booklet will include the balance sheet, and other various aspects of this engine such as cam card, and your invoice that shows your personal selection of the options offered. Misty Moore is in charge of the production of this booklet. We usually mail this out prior to shipping the engine. Should you fail to receive this, feel free to contactMisty at [phone removed by ].
A final note.Our user id is:skipwhite, and our store name is whiteperformance1. You may have noticed other sellers using a similar name offering similar products. These other sellers have capitalized on our name as we see it, and many customers searching for us will inadvertently find them, thinking we are one in the same company. There is only one "Skip White" We are the original premier seller under this name since approximately 2002. We have no other names, nor are we associated with any other company regardless of the similarity in the name or location. Our official company name is Skip White Performance.
Email us for shipping cost for overseas delivery. We have excellent sources for low cost shipping anywhere in the world.
We have now included a flat rate shipping fee on this engine within the 48 continental states.This rate only applies to delivery to a business with the capability to unload the engine without the use of a lift gate. You must have a dock or fork lift. We can have the engine delivered to a residence with lift gate service but at an additional cost.
Your engine will be in a crate on a pallet, and you will receive a roll around engine cradle, at no additional cost. The value of the engine cradle is approx. $49.00. Your engine will also be fully insured. You are welcome to pick up your engine in person, and eliminate the shipping cost. Should you decide to come in, you are welcome to take a tour of our facility.
WE OFFER GREATDISCOUNTS ON SHIPPING. YOU PAY THE FULL SHIPPING FEEON THE HIGHEST SHIPPING COST OF YOUR GROUP OF ITEMS, ANDHALF PRICESHIPPING ON ALL ADDITIONAL ITEMS. FEW OFFER DISCOUNTS ON SHIPPING SUCH AS THIS.EMAIL US USING THE ASK SELLER A QUESTION TAB,IF YOU WOULD LIKE US TO CALCULATE YOUR SHIPPING COST ON MULTIPLE ITEM ORDERS. IF YOU ARE UNABLE TO EMAIL US GIVE US A CALL AT[phone removed by ]FROM8AM-6PM EASTERN TIME MON-FRI AND 11AM-3PM ON SAT.WE WILL ANSWER YOUR EMAILWITHIN THE SAME DAY IN MOST CASES,SO KEEP SHOPPING AND PAY HALF PRICE SHIPPING ON ALL ADDITIONAL ITEMS. PLEASE CALCULATE YOUR SHIPPINGCORRECTLY, TO AVOID DELAYS IN SHIPPING YOUR ITEMS.IF YOU ARE HAVING DIFFICULTY PAYING WITH PAYPAL, FEEL FREE TO GIVE US A CALLAT[phone removed by ].CUSTOMER SERVICE AND SALESHOURS OF OPERATION ARE8AM-8PMMon-Friand10AM-3PM SAT.
FOR TECH SUPPORT, PLEASE USE THE,"ASK SELLER A QUESTION TAB". IT'S LOCATED AT THE TOP RIGHT HAND SIDE OF THIS PAGE. YOU MAY ALSO CALL FOR TECH SUPPORT IF YOU'RE UNABLE TO EXPLAIN WHAT YOU NEED IN AN EMAIL. TECH SUPPORT IS USUALLY NOT AVAILABLE TILL AROUND 10-6 MON-FRI.
Paywith your credit card through PayPal, or call us at [phone removed by ] OR[phone removed by ].
This video is of our company race car owned and operated by Skip White. The engine in the car at the time this video was made was our Stage Three 400 engine. Our 434 engine would have run far better than the 400 engine in the car at the time of this is a tutorial on the proper way to remove the engine from its crate. It is very important that you save your engine crate in the event that you need to return the engine to us for any reason. When the engine arrives, be sure to check the crate for any damage. If you notice any damage to the crate, then make note of this on the sign off sheet that the driver will ask you to sign, and take pictures while the driver is present if possible. This will assist us in making a claim for damages. We have made this engine crate nearly indestructible, but some freight companies have still managed to damage our engines. Please inspect the crate when it arrives, and do take pictures if you notice any
