Not until the First World War would the wristwatch be considered an everyday necessity for the gentleman, although their use by troops is noted during the Boer War, albeit limited. Prior to the Great War, watches were considered women’s jewelry and too ladylike for the discerning man.

WWI would change this, putting the watch on the wrists of soldiers fighting in the trenches of Europe, this event having repercussions once the soldier returned home.

As one 1919 advertisement promoting wristwatches for gentlemen states, such devices were manly watches for manly men – any man so out of date as to consider the wristwatch effeminate need only learn the kind of men who use them…the fighting men, the soldiers in the World War, the military and naval men the world over, the big game hunters, the aviators, motorists, yachtsmen. By the end of the 1920s, wristwatch production would surpass pocket watch output at most U.S. factories and Swiss factories, a trend that became more pronounced over time.

           I am pleased to offer for sale the following military watch, a Waltham Depollier (Dubois) model dating to ca 1918 in great condition.  Its wire lug, three-piece case is crafted of Solid Sterling Silver and was made by Jacques Depollier & Son , a prominent case maker and watch firm in the early 20th century. 

  What makes this model very unusual to me is its case stamp, signed DUBOIS for the parent company (Dubois Watch Case Co.) and not the typical J. Depollier & Son that I have only seen with this particular Khaki model. If you aren’t familiar with Depollier this doesn’t mean much but if you have collected them over the years the Dubois stamp is very unique.

Depollier was founded by its namesake in 1877 (in Brooklyn, NY) and made most of its cases under the Dubois name. They are best known for their unique cases for WWI period military and sportsman watches, including one of the very first waterproof watches, a good ten years before Rolex. It was also a Depollier cased Waltham that was on the wrist of pilot Roland Rohlfs when, in 1919, he broke the world record by flying to an altitude of 34,610 feet in a Curtiss L-3 triplane.

           As with all Depollier watches this timepiece features a robust Waltham mechanism.  One of its key selling points of this KHAKI and similar sterling silver models (like the D&D Utility) was itsunbreakable glass that will not loosen or fall out. In fact, one of the earliest uses of a heavy duty plastic crystal on a watch, this Depollier never had a glass crystal.

           watch measures 38mm from lug end to lug end and 32mm in width (35mm with winding crown). This works out to be 1-1/2 inches long by 1-1/4 inches wide, not counting the crown. My watchmaker David has fully serviced its 3/0 size, finely damasked original 7 jewel, Waltham USA mechanism and it runs very well and keeps accurate time.

          The 100% original white porcelain enamel dial is in excellent PLUS condition with no chips or hairlines, it is PRISTINE.  It features a black 60 minute outer track border, Arabic style numbers, original Skeleton blue steel hands and a recessed sub-seconds dial with 60 second chapter and sweeping seconds hand. Signed WALTHAM below the 12. Please note that the hands and numbers have been repainted with safe, non toxic enamel material, it is NOT radium.

           The new hardened acrylic crystal is in excellent condition. Again, this model originally came with an acrylic (early plastic) crystal and NOT glass. The three-piece Sterling Silver case is in excellent condition, complete with solid wire lugs that are solid and secure.

The silver steel winding crown is in excellent condition, winding and setting smoothly. This watch utilizes a stem sleeve, keeping the stem/crown in place even when the mechanism is removed from the case. This sleeve was replaced during servicing, ensuring it is nice and tight, holding a wind securely.

           Turning the watch over I find that the back lid is in excellent condition, tastefully signed “Benjamin Perrington from Dad  5-8-18.” I personally think that military watches with personal inscriptions adds to the interest and history of the timepiece, also useful if the watch were to get lost during battle so it could find its rightful owner again.

            Peeking inside I find a clean 2/3 bridge, seven jewel mechanism with fancy damaskeening on the top plates. It is signed Waltham, USA with serial number #20,700,459, dating it to ca 1918 as per production records. The inside case lid is clearly stamped DUBOIS, STERLING  440,933. This serial number jives with the J. Depollier & Son marked cases frm this era, why they stamped Dubois and not Depollier is a mystery to me as I’ve had at least twenty of these models over the last 25 years and never seen it before.

            This timepiece was disassembled, cleaned, oiled and regulated to ensure that it winds and sets smoothly while keeping accurate time. It comes complete with a 14mm black genuine crocodile deBeer strap especially designed for wire lug watches. It has been worn but is still in very good shape. All in all an excellent, early military watch from Dubois/Depollier and Waltham.

• Since 1998, Holben\'s Fine Watches\' goal has been happy customers. I treat buyers as I like to be treated: with courtesy and respect. I am especially proud of my excellent response and high number of repeat clients.
• Watch sizes: I provide exact case measurements in millimeters (the watch industry standard) and inches, and include a U.S. quarter in one photo as a size reference. Draw the measurements on paper to help visualize the watch on your wrist. Remember, watches for men made from the 1910s to 1970s were noticeably smaller than what is considered normal today.
• U.S. winners pay $7.75 for fully insured, safely boxed USPS shipping with door to door tracking. Washington State residents (and those with shipping addresses in Washington State) are required to pay 8.8% sales tax.
• Canadian buyers pay $22.00 for Priority Mail shipping with tracking (I pay the insurance) or $28 for Global Priority Express, about 3 days faster.  International buyers pay $44.00 (actual or below cost) for Global Priority Express Mail with door to door tracking. I pay for the insurance.
• International buyers, please note: Import duties, taxes, and charges are not included in the item price or shipping cost. These charges are the buyer\'s responsibility. Please check with your country\'s customs office to determine what these additional costs will be prior to offerding. I ship within 24 hours of receiving your cleared payment but your local custom authorities can cause delays.
• Payment is due within three days of sale end, unless you have contacted me prior to arrange otherwise. In accordance with policy, payments not received in four days will initiate an unpaid item case through the Resolution Center.
• In the rare event that a watch needs further service upon receipt,  I ask that you return the wristwatch to me (or mailed to my watchmaker, David, in New York City) at my expense. It will be corrected and quickly mailed back to you. NOTE:  I will not pay for or offer a partial refund for work done by another watchmaker. ALL of my watches are under warranty;  you may either return the watch to me for a refund or have my watchmaker David fix it at no charge to you.
• If you like unique and collectible vintage or antique wristwatches, add me as one of your favorite sellers. I specialize in American and Swiss timepieces from the 1900s to the 1970s. My selection changes weekly, and is comprised of manual wind and automatic watches from the following categories: WWI trench; WWII; military; fancy case, art nouveau; art deco; mid-century modern; stainless steel; sterling silver; white, yellow and rose gold; solid gold; platinum; and diamond, ruby and/or sapphire ladies cocktail watches.

Our sister store, Holben\'s Fine Watch Bands, offers an extensive selection of straps including Fluco, Bonetto Cinturini, deBeer, Di-Modell, Hadley-Roma, Hirsch and Staib; deployment and flip lock clasps; metal bracelets; canvas, genuine and silicone rubber divers; carbon fiber; Kevlar; LORICA; Cordura; GT rally tropic perforated; alligator-, crocodile-, lizard-, ostrich- and buffalo-grain; chrono sport; riveted; waterproof / water resistant.

Cautious Carl (my old and kind dog friend) and I want to thank you for dropping by and we hope you place a offer. Let us know if you have any questions too!