This is a \"BUY IT NOW\" for the newly revised and updatedPocher Alfa Romeo Step-by-Step Supplemental Assembly Instruction DVD-ROM. This DVD-ROM containsover 1,500 assembly photos as well as two separate supplemental instructions for the K71/K78 and K73/K81. Most important building tips are now added on the photos for a clear illustration.

*** Now featuring parts by Model Motorcars Ltd and their assembly photos ***

MONEY BACK GUARANTEE!If not satisfied for any reason, return it for a full refund.

(Shipping by mail) Domestic shipping cost is as shown on the shipping calculator.International shipping please note, thenew International shipping is extremely expensive compared to the oldone. But I will offer to ship this myself for $5 postage

(Download) For Domestic download, select the free “localpick up” at check out.For International download, select the free “ExpeditedInternational Shipping” at check out.

A different CD/DVD is also available for building the Pocher Rolls Royce, Bugatti, Mercedes, and the Fiat. Please see my other store listings. Below is the Table of Contents and a short sample section.

INTRODUCTION

ENGINE

· BASIC SEQUENCE OF ASSEMBLY

· TEST FITTING THE ENGINE BLOCKS

· TEST FITTING THE ENGINE HEAD

· ENGINE BLOCK RIGHT SIDE (Drawing 1)

· ENGINE BLOCK LEFT SIDE (Drawing 2)

· CRANKSHAFT (Drawing 3)

· ENGINE BLOCK ASSEMBLY (Drawing 4)

· ENGINE HEAD (Drawing 8)

· CAMSHAFT (Drawing 10)

· VALVE COVER (Drawing 11)

TRANSMISSION (Drawings 5,6,7)

§ THE POCHER ALFA ROMEO BRAKE SYSTEM DISAPPOINTMENTS

STEERING GEARBOX (Drawing 16)

CHASSIS

· CHASSIS BASIC SEQUENCE OF ASSEMBLY

· MAIN FRAME

· RADIATOR ASSEMBLY AND TEST FITTING (Drawing 9)

· TEST FITTING THE BODY

· RELOCATING THE ENGINE REARWARD (Optional)

· PAINTING THE FRAME

CHASSIS COMPONENT ASSEMBLY

· INSTALLING THE FLOORBOARD AND ENGINE

§ FIREWALL (Drawing 14, 15)

§ DASHBOARD (Drawing 13)

§ FRONT AXLE (Drawing 17, 18, 19)

§ REAR AXLE (Drawing 20, 21, 22)

§ CHASSIS BOTTOM DETAILS (Drawing 23)

§ FUEL TANK (Drawing 36)

§ EXHAUST SYSTEM /TOOL BOX (Drawing 35, 50, 51)

WIRE WHEEL ASSEMBLY

§ GENERAL NOTE

§ WHEEL HUB (Drawing 24)

§ INNER OUTSIDE METAL RING (Drawing 25)

§ INNER SPOKES (Drawing 26)

· WRONG SPOKE BEND ANGLE PROBLEMS

· WRONG SPOKE LENGTH PROBLEMS

· THE EASIER METHOD TO ASSEMBLE THE FIRST LAYER

· FIRST LAYER AS SHOWN IN THE ASSEMBLY MANUAL

§ MIDDLE PLASTIC RING (Drawing 27)

· THE EASIER METHOD

· AS SHOWN IN THE ASSEMBLY MANUAL

§ MIDDLE SPOKES (Drawing 28)

· THE EASIER METHOD

· AS SHOWN IN THE ASSEMBLY MANUAL

§ OUTER PLASTIC RING (Drawing 29)

§ OUTER SPOKES (Drawing 30)

· ALTERNATE OUTER SPOKE PATTERN

§ OUTER METAL RING (Drawing 31)

§ TIRE AND BRAKE DRUM (Drawing 32)

K73/K81 BODY

§ BODY TEST FITTING

§ PAINTING

§ HOOD (Drawing 44)

§ DOOR ASSEMBLY

· DOOR LATCH (Drawing 38)

· DOOR UPHOLSTERY (Drawing 39)

· DOOR HINGE ASSEMBLY (Drawing 41)

§ UPHOLSTERY (Drawing 40, 42, 43)

§ TAIL FIN ASSEMBLY AND THE SPARE TIRE (Drawing 45)

• SPARE TIRE WELL MODIFICATION

§ REAR BODY DETAILS (Drawing 49)

§ FRONT BODY DETAILS (Drawing 48)

§ DISPLAY SUPPORT & ADDITIONAL CAUTIONS

(Sample section)

THE POCHER ALFA ROMEO KITS

Pocher produced 6 different Alfa Romeo kits. They all share the same engine and chassis. There are 3 basic body styles. Each body style has 2 variations, thus making a total of 6 different kits. They are:

• The K71 Monza (Older and newer kits are slightly different)
• The K73 Spider
• The K81 Mille Miglia (variation of the K73)
• The K78 Muletto (variation of the K71)
• The K89 Coupe Elegant
• The K92 Dinner Jacket (variation of the K89, with plastic wheels)

The differences between the various Alfa Romeo kits are as follows:

THE K71 MONZA, OLD VERSION AND THE LATER KITS

The K71 Monza was the first Alfa Romeo kit produced. There are actually 2 different versions of the K71, the early Boyd issued K71, and the later Pocher issued K71. The Boyd issued kits differ from the later Pocher issued kits in the following ways (also see parts photos):

• Obviously, a different box artwork.
• A very oddly packed kit with all parts in a blue blister tray. Some of the parts are removed from the original trees/sprues just to fit inside this tray. Most metal parts are packed in clear plastic jewel boxes instead of bags.
• Brass crankshaft bushings and connecting rod bushings (see parts photo). These parts were later changed to plastic.
• Some kits have real wire mesh front grill with photo etched Alfa script. Others have a stamped metal grill that is much higher in detail than the later Pocher issued kits. The front grill is pre-attached to the front nose, which can make painting difficult.
• Heavy cast metal wheel hubs (Pocher issued K71 have pressed metal hubs).
• Very high quality plating on the wheel rings and exhaust pipe.
• The shorter and correct rear damper upper bracket (Later kits provide you with 4 incorrect parts that are too long).
• The horn assembly is mounted on the firewall instead of on the engine. In the later Pocher issued kits, the horn is move to the left side of the engine, causing an empty hole on the firewall. In the later K71, an extra mounting post is added to the left side of the engine. Therefore, the Boyd Monza and the later Monza engine blocks are NOT interchangeable.
• The assembly manual (orange stripe on the side) is completely different than the later assembly manual (blue stripe). The part numbering system is also completely different.
• The assembly drawings are completely different and very poorly done. If you thought the Pocher assembly manuals were bad, this one is even worse (see scanned images).
• Different hood hinges.
• Shorter oil filler pipe on the floor bottom tank.
• The biggest disappointment is the low quality black screws instead of the later shiny plated screws.

If you have this kit, I would highly recommend that you also use the blue stripe assembly manual in addition to the orange stripe one. A scan of the blue stripe manual is included on this DVD. Because of the different part numbers, you should also use the K71 parts photo to compare and identify the parts.

THE BOYD ISSUED SUPPLEMENTAL INSTRUCTION

Boyd Models also issued a 6 page written supplemental instruction booklet for their K71 Monza. Unfortunately, the part numbers referred to uses the old system. So this makes them difficult to use if you are building the later K71 Monza. However, it does make interesting reading. The scanned images of this booklet are included on this DVD-ROM.

K73 SPIDER VERSUS THE K71 MONZA

The K73 Spider was the second Alfa Romeo kit produced. Besides the engine and chassis, almost everything else is different:

• K73 has an all new body, a different front grill, hood, opening doors, and full-length wheel fenders. This body fits poorly, and is much more difficult to assemble compared to the Monza.
• New interior with real leather upholstery covering. The K73 (and K81) are the only Pocher kits with real leather upholstery sheets. All others have vinyl upholstery sheets.
• A completely new exhaust system with muffler.
• Working headlights (The K71 does NOT have working light bulbs and wiring, but they can be added easily).
• A carpet that covers the same floorboard as the Monza.
• A fuel tank is added to the rear of the frame. The fuel tank filler pipe does not fit the body in the earlier kits. It was modified in the later kits.
• 2 spare tires, making a total of 6 wheels to assemble.
• Different tires with block thread pattern.
• There are also old and new versions of K73 kits although the differences are minor.

K78 MULETTO VERSUS THE K71 MONZA

The K78 Muletto is basically identical to the K71 except the following:

• Obviously, the K78 is minus the headlights and wheel fenders.
• Small metal caps are provided to cover up the headlight mounting holes.
• K78 only has only one windshield.
• K78 has the shorter (and correct) rear damper upper bracket as with the early Boyd issued Monza. The K78 and the early Boyd K71 are the only Alfa Romeo kits that provide you this correct part. All others provide you with the longer and incorrect part.
• Mounting of the front damper is different. K71 Uses a long bar that goes all the way across the front, whereas K78 Muletto uses two shorter pieces.
• Real wire mesh front grill, but there is NO Alfa logo despite the box art showing an Alfa logo on the front grill. Why this Alfa logo was not included in the kit is a mystery, since Pocher does have this part in the factory parts bin. The Alfa logo is included with the early Boyd issued K71 and the K89 Coupe Elegant (used on the spare tire cover). An aftermarket Alfa logo can be purchased from scaledetails.com. Scale detail’s Alfa logo is very well made.
• A canvas curtain is provided to cover over the passenger area (similar to the side curtains on the Pocher Fiat).
• The number “2” stickers (four of them).
• Leather belt and buckles for the hood.
• K78 has 4 of the K73 tires (block thread patterns)
• Black anodized exhaust pipe (K71 is chrome plated)

There are also a few discrepancies between the K78 box photo and the actual model. The box photo shows an Alfa logo on the front grill, but there is no such logo in the kit. The box photo shows the front dampers mounted with a single rod going across (similar to the K71), but the actual model has the two piece mounting rods. Lastly, the box photo shows the plated exhaust pipe, but the kit has a black exhaust pipe.

K81 MILLE MIGLIA VERSUS THE K73 SPIDER

The K81 Mille Miglia is basically identical to the K73 except for the following:

• Obviously, the 3 headlights with the additional spherical lenses, as well as the mounting hardware. The front grill has an extra screw hole for mounting the center headlight. The center headlight is not a working headlight.
• The tail fin is deleted.
• The carpet is also deleted.
• Only one spare tire that is strapped in place with leather belts and buckles, using new mounting hardware.
• Scuderia Ferrari Badge on the sides. Unlike all other markings which are stickers, the SF badges are waterslide decals. 3 decals are provided in the kit.
• K81 has 5 of the K71 tires (original thread patterns).

K89 COUPE ELEGANT AND THE K92 DINNER JACKET

The K89 Coupe Elegant has an all new main body, although the front nose and hood is identical to that of the Spider. Additional mounting blocks are added to the side of the frame to fit the new body. Other differences are:

• New doors with improved door latch and roll up side windows.
• The interior is also new, including new seats, and red vinyl seat coverings.
• The wheel fenders are modified from that of the K73/K81.
• The side marker lights on the front wheel fenders have been deleted. The horns from the K73 have also been deleted, making a quite plain looking front end.
• The mounting of the headlight is much improved compared to the Spider.
• The filler pipe for the oil tank below the floorboard is relocated.
• New vinyl covering for the spare tire, and also a metal “Alfa” logo for the tire cover.
• The dashboard is the same as on the other kits.
• K89 has 6 of the K71 tires (original thread pattern).

The K92 Dinner Jacket has the same body as the K89, but with plastic wheels. There are 6 of the K73 block thread pattern tires. The K92 was part of the Pocher cost cutting measures. Not only have the wheels been converted to plastic, the brass horn parts and the plated metal instrument gauge pods have all became chrome plastic parts on the K92. The K92 was the last kit produced by Pocher before the factory closed. Strangely enough, there were so few K92 produced that this “cheapened” kit ended up being one of the most expensive and sought after kits by collectors.

THE VALUE OF POCHER ALFA ROMEO KITS

Pocher kits are as much a collector\'s item as they are model kits to be built. The value of a kit is judged on its condition and rarity. The K71 Monza and the K73 Spider are by far the most abundant and least expensive. The K78 Muletto and the K81 Mille Miglia are rare and more expensive although they are almost identical to the K71 and K73. The K89 Coupe Elegant is even harder to find and very expensive. The K92 Dinner Jacket has plastic wheels and would technically be considered less desirable. But because of the rarity, it is just as expensive as the K89 Coupe Elegant, if not more.

If you are building the kit, there is no reason to spend the extra money for a rare kit because the engine and chassis are all identical. If this is your first Pocher Alfa Romeo, and you have yet to decide which kit to build, I would highly recommend either the K71 Monza or the K73 Spider. The K71 Monza is also a lot easier compared to the K73 Spider.

Between the Boyd issued and Pocher issued K71, the Pocher issue is more popular. The value of the two is about identical. The Boyd issued kit is more difficult to build due to the extremely poor instruction and different part numbering system.

If you are building the K78 Muletto, I highly recommend that you keep the original white color. The Muletto is a collector’s kit that is worth significantly more for what it is. For example, if you are going to paint the model to dark green, do the model justice by starting with a K71 instead.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION FOR COLLECTORS

Some of the metal parts bags are identical among all Pocher Alfa Romeo kits, while others are unique to each kit. The common metal parts bags are mainly the ones used on the engine and chassis. They have the same 3 digit bag number. For example, all Pocher Alfa Romeo kits contain the same bag 108. This information may become helpful in case parts are lost or replacement parts are needed.

Between the different Alfa kits, sometimes, identical metal parts may have different bag numbers. These parts will have the same first 5-digit number, but a DIFFERENT bag number. For example, the 72303 screw is 72303-192-K in the K71 kit, but it is 72303-292-K in the K73 kit. To avoid confusion, these parts will be referred to using only the first 5 digits. This information alone is sufficient to identify the part. This information will help you better understand the production and organization of the various Pocher Alfa Romeo kits.

Some of the same plastic trees/sprues are used in the various Alfa kits. The same trees may be molded in different colors. However, they may NOT always be exactly identical. There may be modifications made for each kit. For example, the main frame tree on the K73 does NOT have the front nose and bottom plate for the K71. Also, Tree 23 on the Muletto does NOT have the headlight housing and brackets molded. Because of these differences, these trees may not always be interchangeable among the different kits unless they have been carefully checked to be the same.

BUILDING THE POCHER ALFA ROMEO WITH THIS DVD-ROM

This DVD-ROM is an extremely detailed document that will assist you in the proper assembly of the Pocher Alfa Romeo. This DVD-ROM contains of the following:

• The K73 Spider/K81 Mille Miglia Supplemental Instruction.
• The K71 Monza/K78 Muletto Supplemental Instruction.
• Over 1,500 assembly photos organized in separate files.
• Over 400 Parts photo of almost all Pocher Alfa Romeo kits.
• Photos of the finished model K71, K73, and K78.
• Over 800 Reference photos.
• High quality scanned images of Pocher Alfa Romeo assembly manuals.
• Scanned images of the Boyd issued Monza Supplemental Instruction booklet.
• A bonus article on the Alfa 8C engine.
• Scanned images of the Pocher Catalog.
• (New!) Parts inventory check lists for K71/K73/K78/K81/K89. Print this list out, check through your kit, and keep this list with the kit.

The purpose of this DVD-ROM is to assist you in successful completion the Pocher Alfa Romeo, instead of having a partially build kit that is abandoned. This DVD-ROM will explain just about every potential problem you may encounter during the building process. It will help you avoid potential frustrations so that your building experience will be an enjoyable one. The metal parts photos have all the part number edited onto the photos. This will help you inventory your kit, as well as identify the correct part during assembly. The plastic sprue/tree photos are large enough that all parts can be identified. This will be helpful if you purchased a partially started kit, and need to account for all parts already removed from the trees. The scanned images of the assembly manual are highly detailed that they can be enlarged many times and the images can still be seen clearly. This way, you are able to view any page of the assembly manual on your computer screen with just a few click of the mouse.

One of the most helpful areas is that all the design flaws will be explained in advance. This information will help you anticipate the problem so that the necessary modifications can be planned and performed in advance. It will save you the frustration of discovering the problems afterward, and then having to do major disassemblies to correct the problem. These areas include why the hood ends up too short for some people (the hood is not too short), relocating the engine and the new problems it creates, the leaf spring stiffness problem, the camber angle problem, rear axle misfit problems, the wire wheel problems, how to fit two spare tires under the tail fin for the K73 (yes they fit), alignment of the body panels, and so on.

The Alfa Romeo assembly manual can be quite confusing. Each step consists of a complicated drawing but it lacks specific written information. Each drawing shows many parts but does not explain the sequence of their assembly. Some parts are only drawn once although there are multiples of them or they need to be repeated for the other side. Some drawings show screws and parts that don\'t assemble to anything. Some drawings show parts to be installed already in place. Many parts end in reference numbers instead of showing what they are attached to. The assembly drawings are out of numerical order (except the K71), and there are also a few mistakes in the assembly manual. This supplemental instruction will clarify all this. The objectives of this supplemental instruction are as follows:

· Assist you in the proper assembly of the model in a step-by-step manner from start to finish.

· Identify and explain all major engine/chassis/body misfit problems IN ADVANCE, so that these problems can be anticipated, and necessary modifications can be planned and performed in advance. These tips will help you avoid having to do major disassemblies.

· Show you the best and most logical sequence of assembly in each step to minimize difficulty and avoid dead corners or blocked screw holes.

· Explain the adjustments necessary to PREVENT major body misfit problems.

· Show you where other parts have poor fit and the best way to fix them.

· Alert you at every step where assembly mistakes are likely to occur.

· Alert you to all the parts that look identical/symmetrical but are NOT.

· Provide you with useful building tips at every step of the way.

· Alert you to all steps where parts are likely to BREAK.

· Provide helpful tips on building the wire wheel.

· Alert you to all the mistakes in the assembly manual.

· Clarify drawings that may be confusing.

· Show you how to properly install all the upholstery pieces (K73/K81).

· Provide advice on painting.

There are two separate Supplemental Instructions on the DVD-ROM; this one is for the K73 Spider/K81 Mille Miglia, and the other is for the K71 Monza/K78 Muletto. This DVD will NOT cover the assembly of the K89 Coupe Elegant body, or the K92 Dinner Jacket body. If you are building the K89/K92 chassis, you should follow the K73/K81 Supplemental Instruction since it is more similar. Please see the separate Table of Contents for the full organization of information. The short Table of Contents can also be printed out as a guide.

Great efforts have been spent to make sure all information is correct, and every potential assembly problem is addressed. The Pocher Alfa Romeo is a very complicated model to assemble. Therefore, it is unavoidable that this supplemental instruction is also very complicated. However, the entire document has been arranged so that all assemblies are explained in the most logical order, using concise and understandable language. Almost all steps are further organized into subsections. Important additional headings are in BOLD letters. Important points are highlighted in yellow or written in UPPER CASE letters. All directions mentioned will be in reference to the car (left/right/front /rear).

Throughout the years, Pocher has quietly made a few minor design changes to improve parts fit. Therefore, depending on how old your kit is, some of the misfits described may have already been corrected in your particular kit. These parts include the frame, the fuel tank filler pipe, the door latch, the door liner, the rear upper damper bracket, and the front headlight base. These changes affect mainly the K73 and newer kits. Pocher have also revised the assembly manuals so there are old versions and new versions of them. The assembly manuals scans of most Pocher Alfa Romeos are on this DVD-ROM.

THE POCHER “QUALITY” CONTROL

Unfortunately, the production quality control of Pocher is poor. In my experience, about one out of six kit has some form of defect. This can happen even when a kit is factory sealed. Some kits have missing parts, deformed parts, or wrong parts (i.e. two left fenders instead of left/right). Some kits have duplicate parts, or entire trees/bags missing. Some kits have items missing in the metal parts bag, or the entirely wrong metal parts bag stapled to the cardboard. I even heard of one kit that has two of the same metal parts cardboard (half of all metal parts are missing, the other half are doubled). Some metal parts may be defective such as the wrong shape, dimensions, or threads. Some plastic trees/sprues may have parts missing on them because the parts have fallen off BEFORE being bagged (one of my factory sealed K73 only has 7 pistons instead of 8). Some plastic trees can have deformed parts or partially molded parts (short run) on them.

Some kits suffer improper storage damage, which is NOT the fault of the factory. This is more common with the older kits. This can be in the form of heat damage or water damage. Heat damage may be evident by a faded box. They show up as melted, warped plastic parts, or dried up stickers. Because the parts are tightly packed in a relatively small box, sometimes the metal parts can leave imprints in the plastic parts. Water damage is usually evident by water stains on the box. These occur as rusted metal parts, and rotted foam/cloth/ decal, or moldy leather. The plastic parts can also become brittle over time, especially if the kit is stored in fluctuations of extreme heat and cold. The rubber parts can harden and crumble over time. Unfortunately, some of these defects will not be evident by visual inspection.

THE POCHER PARTS IDENTIFICATION SYSTEM

Pocher parts are identified by 3 sets of numbers/symbols. The first 5 digit is the part number, the next 2 or 3 digit is the bag number or tree number, the last letter tells you the color or the material of the part. The first 2 digit of the part number also tells you the original kit this part came from.

The early Boyd issued K71 Monza has a completely different parts identification system. If you are building this kit, you should use the parts photos to correspond the parts to the new system.

INVENTORY YOUR KIT

Pocher kits are infamous for missing parts, even when a kit is factory sealed. Check through your kit as best as you can to make sure it has no defects. Inventory each metal parts bag against the parts list printed on the cardboard and against the metal parts photos. Photos of all the parts have been included on this DVD-ROM to help you inventory your kit.

This new version DVD-ROM also contains an inventory check list for your kit. Please print this page out, check through your kit, and keep this list with the kit.

Bag 103 has three 71130 large instrument gauge pods/bezels plus one 71129 center bezel. These two parts are EXTREMELY similar. They should not be confused as one during inventory of parts. 71129 has a raised ridge around the center hole whereas 71130 does not.

K71 - There is a mistake on the cardboard parts list for Bag 161. The parts list shows a part number 71221-161-F. The correct part number should be 71221-161-K. This is the front damper stay in Step 38.

(Supplemental instruction sample section)

ENGINE

Again, the key to successfully building a Pocher Alfa Romeo is test fitting the parts in advance and making adjustments to improve the parts fit. Don\'t be afraid to modify a part to improve the fit.

ENGINE BASIC SEQUENCE OF ASSEMBLY

The engine consists of the left and right halves, with the external parts screwed on from the inside. For a great looking engine, all plastic parts should be spray painted. Due to the poor parts fit, test fitting must be done before painting. Therefore, the basic procedure for building the engine should be as follows:

• Test fit the engine blocks and cylinder sleeves.
• Test fitting the engine head.
• Assemble and test fit the external parts, and then remove them.
• Assemble and test fit the internal parts, and then remove them.
• Paint ALL plastic parts.
• Reassemble the external parts.
• Reassemble the internal parts.
• Assemble the engine halves together.

TEST FITTING THE ENGINE BLOCKS

Trim all flash and sand the engine blocks so they will fit together seamlessly. Trim the front opening so that it is perfectly rounded to fit the front cover 71532-16-M (Drawing 4). The front surface of the two engine halves should be perfectly even so the front cover can fit seamlessly to both sides. Trim the rear opening so that it is perfectly rounded to support the flywheel without binding. Check that the bottom oil pan 71530-16-M will fit flush to both engine halves without gaps.

The rear screw post on the left engine block is misaligned, and will prevent the two engine halves from fitting properly. The problem is that there is not enough clearance around the screw hole on the right engine half for the screw post, causing the right engine half to be slightly more rearward (Look from the bottom to see this). Trim the clearance area around the screw hole to improve the fit (See photo for clarification). The two halves should be perfectly aligned with each other after assembly.

Thread all 4 screw posts to make assembly easier later. These screw posts are too thin to use the Melting Method safely. Therefore, very carefully enlarge the 4 holes with a 3/64th inch drill first, and then carefully install the 72302 screws. Be careful no to break the screw.

TEST FITTING THE CYLINDER SLEEVES 71109

Temporarily install the 8 metal cylinder sleeves 71109, and test fit the engine block again.

IMPORTANT: Notice the cylinder sleeve is NOT a symmetrical part. The upper ridge is 1.5mm tall, while the lower ridge is only 1mm tall (see photo). On the older kits, the bottom side has a tapered edge while the top side is flat. The cylinder sleeves MUST fit correctly. If they are upside down, they will still fit, but they will cause a gap between the engine block halves or cause the engine block to bulge outward.

The cylinder sleeves MUST fit so that the top and bottom grooves fit into the molded slots on the engine halves. If the cylinder sleeves are in the wrong position, the two engine halves will not fit together well because the top and bottom ridges are slightly different in size.

TEST FITTING THE ENGINE HEAD

The engine head 71531-16-M (Drawing 8) only sits on top of the engine block and is NOT bolted down. Once the model is assembled, it will be held in place by the intake manifold, exhaust headers, and the upper radiator hose. The engine head can then be displaced slightly to view the inner details below.

Even with this setup, there is a poor fit between the engine head and the engine block. This problem may be worse if your engine head is slightly warped, or if the cylinder sleeves are installed upside down. Test fit the engine head now, and make all necessary adjustments (note direction, the side with two holes on the top is the rear side). Check the join line, and make any necessary trimming so the engine head will fit seamlessly on top of the block.

TEST FITTING THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST MANIFOLD TO THE ENGINE HEAD

Temporarily install the intake manifold 71544-25-A (Drawing 4) and exhaust headers (for K71/K78, it is 71566-26-A. For the others, they are two of 73541-22-A in Drawing 35). The screw hole is way too small and the plastic will very likely crack or the screw may break. To prevent this, carefully enlarge these screw holes first with a small drill (3/64th inch), and then thread the holes using the screw or a threading tap. The plastic is too thin to use the Melting Method safely. The screws should be tightened so that the intake manifold and exhaust headers will fit just tight to the engine blocks, and fit all the way inward. DO NOT over tighten these screws. Otherwise, it will damage the prongs on the engine block.

The intake and exhaust manifolds must fit all the way inward on the engine block. There is a ridge all around the top of the engine block, even between the prongs for the intake/exhaust maifolds, preventing the intake/exhaust manifolds from fitting all the way inward. To prevent this, remove the ridge of plastic between the prongs (see assembly photos).

(Now comes the hard part) When looking from the front, the engine head must be centered on top of the engine. The engine head must also touch the top of the engine, and fit between the intake and the exhaust manifold.

The main problem is that the intake/exhaust manifold alignment pins are slightly too far apart, making it impossible for the engine head to fit down. Since the alignment pins also have screws inside, it is difficult to relocate them. This problem can be partially corrected by installing the intake/exhaust manifolds more inward.

This problem can also be corrected by elongating the holes on the engine head to the sides by about 2mm (see photo). This can be done with a Dremel grinding tip. Although doing this may cause the hole to open up into the camshaft space, this is OK since it will not be visible once the engine is built. Make sure to remove all uneven plastic at the joining surfaces. Performing these few test fittings in advance will make assembly easier later.

After the adjustments are made, look from the front and rear, and make sure the intake and exhaust manifolds, the engine head, and the engine block will all fit without gap.

PAINTING THE ENGINE

For a great looking engine, all plastic parts should be spray painted. Again, painting should only be done after test fitting all parts. Assemble the engine parts from the next few steps, and then disassemble for painting, and then reassemble after painting. This way, all fit problems are taken care of in advance.

K78 MULETTO: The exhaust pipe is black anodized. Therefore, you may want to paint the plastic exhaust header 71566-26-A to flat black or a matching color.

ENGINE BLOCK RIGHT SIDE (Drawing 1)

A few groups of parts in this step can be pre-assembled and painted as a single part.

INTAKE PARTS

The circular cover 71540-25-A is too large for the hole on 71539-25-A. Trim the cover until it can fit into the hole on 71539. The grey plastic can be glued using regular model glue or CA glue.

Test fit the intake body 71539-25-A onto 71538-25-A. Make sure the intake body can slide all the way onto 71538. The interlocking tabs will have to be thinned.

There is a poor fit between the intake body 71539-25-A and the upper cover 71541-25-A. The mounting pin is too close to the vertical stalk, and it is also too tall. Trim the mounting pin and the joining surface so that upper cover 71541 can fit flat on top of the intake body 71539. Glue these two parts together.

Trim the joining surfaces of 75139-25-A and air intake bracket 71542-25-A so that these two parts will fit together seamlessly, use CA glue. Notice 71542 can fit either correctly or upside down. Make sure it is correctly installed. The side with the ridge faces up.

If you are building one of the newer kits, 71539-25-A may have an extra lump of plastic on it. This is NOT part of the detail, but is actually caused by a nick/damage on the molds. This extra lump of plastic should be trimmed off.

WIRE MESH 71022

The wire mesh should be installed after the plastic parts are painted. The wire mesh should fit INSIDE 71542. It must be glued in place with CA glue so it will not fall off. A small piece of foam can be placed below the wire mesh 71022-108-O to simulate a filter and cover up the plastic below.

K71/K78 - There is very little clearance between the engine hood and the outer corner (right side) of the air intake bracket 71542-25-A. The outer bolt on 71542 may hit the hood. If you plan to relocate the engine rearward (see Engine Relocation Section), this problem will correct itself when the engine is moved rearward.

K73/K81 - There is a small hole on the right side of 71539 where the fuel line will be inserted later (see drawing 37 where a small wire is shown ending in reference number 1-71539). The fuel line is the copper wire in Bag 273. For now, check that this hole is open, and the copper wire will fit into this hole.

SUPERCHARGER

There is a poor fit between the supercharger body 71537-25-A and the front cover 71538-25-A. Trim the bottom joining surface and the bottom extension on 71538 until the two parts will fit flat with each other. Thread the screw hole on 71538 to make assembly easier later.

Slide the intake runner 71543-25-A onto the supercharger body 71537-25-A. Trim the two joining surfaces to improve the fit. 74543 must be in place BEFORE the rear cover 71535-25-A is screwed on.

For the best look, the intake manifold 71544-25-A (Drawing 4) should be glued to 71543 so they are a single part. The intake manifold will not fit flat on top of 71543, but will be slanted upward slightly.

IMPORTANT: 71543 can move slightly fore and back on top of the supercharger. DO NOT glue 71543 onto the supercharger yet. Its position will need to be fine adjusted later to align the upper intake manifold with the mounting prongs on the engine block.

The rear cover 71536-25-A will either fit correctly or reversed. Make sure the semi-circle faces the rear, and the flat side of the semi-circle faces DOWN. Otherwise, the rear plate 71535-25-A will NOT fit correctly.

Temporarily attach the rear plate 71535-25-A and test fit the entire sub-assembly to the engine. The rear plate must TOUCH the engine block side extension so there is no gap. The two screw holes for the supercharger will have to be relocated rearward by about 1mm. DO NOT use washers on any of the supercharger mounting screws. Otherwise the screw head will be too outward and may hit the moving crankshaft.

EARLY K71 ASSEMBLY MANUAL

There is a mistake in the assembly manual. The rear plate 71535-25-A is shown attached to the supercharger with a 72302 screw. This is incorrect. This must be the longer 72303 screw. This mistake was corrected in the later manuals.

At this point, the entire sub-assembly should be spray painted. Once the paint is dried, paint the bolt heads, and then install the rear plate 71535-25-A. Otherwise, the bolt heads will be in between and out of reach for painting.

WATER PUMP 71545/71546

Be sure the water pump 71545-25-A is glued onto 71546-25-A at 90 degrees relative to each other. These two parts must be glued together firmly so the rubber pipes (to be installed later) will not displace the water pump.

There is a poor fit between the water pump assembly and the engine. The water pump assembly should be horizontal when looking from the side, and parallel to the engine when looking from the top. Adjust the fit by trimming the plastic pin and the mounting hole. The front surface of 71546 that is touching the engine will prevent a good fit. Sand this area until 71546 can fit horizontally.

The screw hole on the water pump assembly 71546-25-A is very tight and there is risk of breaking the screw. The pin is too thin to use the Melting Method. Carefully enlarge this screw hole with a 3/64th inch drill.

DO NOT use washers on any of the water pump mounting screws. Otherwise the screw head will be too outward and may hit the moving crankshaft.

WATER PIPES

There are 4 water pipes: The short “L” pipe 71554-25-A, the long “L” pipe 71552-25-A, the “Y” pipe 71553-25-A, and the black metal pipe 71217 below. Notice the short \"L\" pipe is NOT a symmetrical part. The longer section goes into the engine.

Install the “Y” pipe on top of the water pump. The rubber hose “M” should be 8mm long. The upper tips of the “Y” pipe should be even with the holes on the engine block.

Obviously, the short \"L\" pipe 71544-25-A and the \"Y\" pipe 71553-25-A will not fit each other in the space allowed. The connectors need to be trimmed to less than half the original length (see photo. A 4mm (1:1 drawing is incorrect) length of rubber hose will then connect this joint. The long “L” pipe is connected to the “Y” pipe using another 8mm piece of rubber hose. This assembly is not as easy as it looks. It may take several tries to get everything aligned. Use chrome Monokote trim sheet to make hose clamps.

BOTTOM WATER PIPE 71217-108-F

Since this water pipe connects from the water pump to the bottom of the supercharger, it will not be possible to install this pipe until after all engine parts are painted and reinstalled.

This water pipe is misaligned because the supercharger side is too far outward. This can be correct be making two bends on the 71217 pipe.

The bottom rubber pipe must be curved 90 degrees to connect with 71217. The upper end should be glued to the water pump to prevent the rubber hose from coming off. The rubber pipe should be about 20mm long for a good fit. The metal pipe should also be trimmed by about 2mm for a better fit.

Coming soon.... exciting 3D printed custom parts for the Pocher Alfa Romeo