Thanks! Actually, I had looked at the permissions and found the CSS file set to 600. I changed it to 644 and presto! I'll change it again to 666 then start playing with it some more.

I am familiar with CSS so that part didn't faze me. The mystery, for me, was identifying all the UBBT7 elements that could be controlled. Here some documentation would be really nice. Otherwise its LBWA (Learning By Wandering Around).