Style sheets are useful, agreed, but from a perspective of a guy who doesn't manually use them every day, the "codespeak" of them, sucks.
Got through it with firefox... the preview pane is the only way.
Had to remember how I did it in the UBB originally, that's all, it was SO long ago.
But found the key, and that was that I had the zero borders option on, so I just had to keep reducing borders until I was happy again.
I find all the lines distracting.